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The Elements (Ch 23)

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MESSAGE STARTS
From: Rodin
To: Empress Carolus
CC: Imperial Intelligence
Subject: Prime Rule of Elements - Translation
Empress,
Attached is my translation of one of the files that was transmitted as part of the Logic Structure that the entity/ies known as The Original Collective utilizes. It appears to be of historical significance and was drafted by these Builders or similar independent beings.
Since some of the words appear to have untranslatable historical references, I have tried to utilize what I believe are equivalent Terran historical references in order to have it make sense. I will transmit a list of the equivalences between the hitherto unknown language of the Builders or some equivalent into Collective Standard and then into Terran Standard in a separate message.
MESSAGE ENDS
ATTACHMENT 1: Historical Record 001
Date: 234 of The Great Oculus
Recordmaker: Technician First Class Gilgamesh
Record Begins…
Uh… hello. This is my first log on this system. I’m hoping it actually works. I’m sure I’ll have to check it later and erase this part, but I’ll at least get it going.
Now for the official start:
Hello. This is the initialization record for Artificial Intelligence System Class 5 as constructed by the Tyrasid National Government under Special Overproject Coreward. In the event of a complete failure of this system, all records that follow this record are to be analyzed for failure modes.
Initialization Record Ends.
Whew… well, now that that is out of the way, here’s the less scripted part. This will be our biggest AI system yet and we’re hoping that it’ll be enough to help us head coreward safely. From the start of our modern civilization under the Tyrasid National Government [editor’s note, hereafter labeled TNG unless valid for a particular reason], we’ve known that our homeworld sits at what can only be described as being the edge of a vast network of galaxies and galactic formations. Our small star has given us life, but seems barely noticeable among the pinpricks of light that fill the sky in our daylight cycle.
Beyond our humble system, outward, there seems only nothing. We can only guess what lies in that nothing, but if life comes from light, as the official religion believes, then it is into that vast network of stars that we must go to find others like ourselves.
We’re in the process of building the biggest vessels we’ve ever dreamed of, with the latest in technologies to house the thinking engines of this AI. If we can get it to work, those selected to travel coreward will remain in stasis while the AI handles the navigation through the stellar void, refueling, and even the FTL jumps. They won’t have to be in stasis, but since we don’t know how long it will take to find sentient life like us and we can’t construct too much in the way of living facilities for these ships, we can’t do the science-fictional ‘generational ships’.
I know the scientists and engineers and sociologists are already grumbling about invaluable data and processing of new information that will need to happen as the ships travel coreward, but I don’t think they realize how smart this AI is supposed to be. They’ll go to sleep one minute and wake up to whole new theories on physics, engineering principles, and societies that might even dwarf our own. I think they’re just scared of being made obsolete by the AI. Luckily, they’ll always need someone like me. After all, you can’t program an AI to be able to do ALL of its own maintenance, especially on itself.
Alright, time to close this log and strip out the unnecessary bits or at least stash the full record in my personal files before I make it all good and official.
--
Initialization Log 1453
Ok, so let’s try this again. The AI keeps failing over into some kind of weird mode that none of our other AIs have had. The scientists aren’t really sure how it's even happening. My guess is that one of the engineers used a wrong measurement somewhere and the AI is reading it as some kind of faulty sensing. I just hope we can get it fixed so I don’t have to keep creating these initialization logs.
So the lead vessel for this fleet of ours has finally been named. It’s being called The Argonaut, after the first state astronomer of the TNG. In theory, the whole fleet is actually The Argonaut, if we can ever get this AI working properly.
And it doesn’t help that we’re on a time crunch. The stellar flares are apparently doing some nasty things to tech planetside. Some of the scientists are even suggesting that the star might start throwing more of the high-tier elements in bigger clumps. I’d love to get my hands on some of the non-radioactive kinds. There’s supposed to be some amazing properties, but the official TNG rules and the state religion says we can’t touch that stuff. I think it’s a load of crap that’s seriously behind the times, but that’s the rules and execution for violators doesn’t exactly sound all that enjoyable to me. Especially since at the minimum, they’d strip me of my chance to stay on The Argonaut. I sure as Goddess damned don’t want to be stuck here, especially back planetside. I’d probably get signed back up to work in the planetary hospitals again, with the reverted paygrade to boot.
Plus, last I heard, TNG leadership is getting into a trade war with the Wigum Industrial Sector because of a supposed ‘inequal representation’ on The Argonaut. They already have 32% of the slots, but now they’re claiming that because they’re supplying some critical part of the other thinking engines that they deserve another 5%.
If we can’t get the AI working within another three months and there’s a trade strike, it’ll set us back another three years at a minimum, mostly because the scientists who run this whole project will all end up reassigned and I’ll be the only idiot who still knows anything about how its supposed to work.
As ever, I’ll need to purge this and put in the official initialization log, but I just can’t be bothered right now. The engineers keep swearing up and down that there’s nothing wrong with AI, despite throwing errors that they never programmed the AI to even dream up.
--
Reset Log 21
The AI is finally working. It apparently took stuffing some of the key principles from the official religion into it to make it work. I’ve given up trying to understand. I just know that it at least is working and none too soon.
The Wigum Industrial Sector has officially started refusing to send more AI materials to the TNG unless they get more representation on The Argonaut. Jokes on them though. The 32% they had is already being voted on by the rest of the coalition as to whether they will even get those spots.
If nothing else, I know my spot is safe. I even got to pick out which unit is mine and plaster my name on it. Mostly because all the technician rigs need to be specially rigged so that we can wake up during the trip to do essential maintenance and checks on the AI.
We’ve had to reset the AI a few times so far, but it’s taking everything we can throw at it in terms of data and churning out results at an amazing rate. It’s already driving the scientists planetside nuts with all the science it’s already rewritten. And the engineers, well, they’re just fascinated.
The politicians and the priests, well, they aren’t happy, but we haven’t been ‘officially’ giving the AI any tasks in those areas. Just the ‘official’ scientific and engineering data streams.
We’ll start getting arrivals here soon so I probably need to put on my best jumpsuit since I have to be one of the fools who puts them into stasis. It’s got to be disorienting though. Going to sleep in a stasis chamber one minute, waking up the next and not experiencing any of the inbetween. Especially since it’ll go from me putting them to sleep to whomever wakes them up.
**beep-beep-beep** heard
That’s my alarm. Time for me to get properly dressed and go meet the “representatives of the planetary coalition”. Just more people in my book. They won’t remember me ten minutes after they’ve been woken back up, no matter where we are or how long it’s been.
--
Status Log 4
The Argonaut is safe. It isn’t much, but it’s safe. We barely got the FTL drive online and got the AI starting to run calculations for our first jump when the Wigum Industrial Sector attacked the TNG. They didn’t seem to like having lost their 32% of stasis chambers or the fact that the coalition didn’t seem to care about their various embargos. Stupid planetary politics.
But then the idiots in Wigum launched something at The Argonaut fleet. No idea what it was, but our captain seemed reasonably sure that it wasn’t anything good. Luckily, our launch numbers happened just in time and we blinked out of there. We only went to the other side of the system, but it was close enough that we saw the detonation and knew what it meant.
Those idiots in Wigum had apparently decided that if they couldn’t have their 32% or their demanded 37%, then the fleet shouldn’t be allowed to go at all. All we could do was watch.
The Wigum Industrial Sector started using banned weaponry, we think. Stuff they aren’t supposed to have, under like… all of the treaties on banned weaponry? I don’t know. All I can say for certain is that with the amount of weapons they launched, our captain refused to take us back until it was sufficiently over that The Argonaut would still be safe.
--
Status Log 6
We’re it, it seems. The captain just made the announcement. Whatever the Wigum Industrial Sector used, it’s tearing apart the atmosphere as I record this.
It seems weird to even think about, but there isn’t a home to go to anymore. My parents are dead. All the people I attended academy with are dead. Anyone not onboard The Argonaut fleet is dead.
On the plus side, the AI seems to be working just fine. And the rest of the crew seems to be handling all of this ok, at least for the moment.
For something like this, we might have to defrost a couple of the psychologists to make sure we aren’t going to go crazy and destroy the fleet accidentally over this. But I guess this is one of those times where it is good that we did some of those ‘unofficial’ tests and fed in psycho-analysis data and got the AI to re-write some of what we know in psychology and therapy. It won’t replace a good psychologist, but it’ll do until the captain decides if we need to wake somebody up.
--
Status Report 8
This will be my last log until my unit is programmed to wake me up. Per the Captain’s orders, I get to be the last idiot still awake and even then, they’re going to have their unit synced to mine, so I don’t put them to sleep without also going to sleep myself and doing some kind of going crazy destruction of the ship.
Like I would even think of doing that after all the work I’ve put in on this fleet.
It still seems surreal to see the lines of tubes, all these people who have no clue what happened, no idea that our world is no more.
The captain said that they haven’t decided what to do about telling them all when we get wherever we are headed. After all, it’s not like we can do anything about it now.
Anyway, time for the tube. I’ll set my alarm for 10 years or any critical technician alarms or 30 FTL jumps, whichever comes first.
Historical Record 1 ENDS
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I mined my first Ethereum nickel (0.05 ETH)! Here’s my journey and some lessons learned

There are lot of new to mining folks here, I’m one of them. Here is my journey and some of the lessons I learned

Why did I go here?

When Bitcoin hit $40k I finally decided that cryptocurrency isn’t going to go away. And if it’s not going to go away I should look into it. The sad thing is that in the early early days of bitcoin I had played with getting a miner going. I even got to the point where it was happily mining away on my computer. But then I had to get back to work and when my computer rebooted I never started it up again. What a loss!
I should also call out, the EtherMining guide is really good. If you are starting your mining journey it’s very helpful

The Wallet

I made the investment in a Ledger wallet. I’ve seen the reddit post that made it to all about poor souls that lost huge amount because of some hack or thievery. If I’m going crypto I’m controlling the keys. I did some research and determined that Leger or Trezor are the best cold wallets. After which I read on Ledger’s site that you shouldn’t mine directly to ledger because it can’t handle a large amount of small transitions (more on this later). Did some google and went with Mew for my mining software wallet figuring I’ll transfer to ledger after.
Here I learned about the magic 20 words or a Mnemonic phrase. Unlike banks, Ledger and Mew don’t hold your account. They are simply devices. If Mew is installed on your phone and if you lose your phone you’re screwed and you can lose all your holdings. Unless you can rebuild your wallet with the Mnemonic phrase that is. Alright, good stuff. I have mine and a safe wallet

And Ethereum?

Of course first I looked into mining bitcoin again. What? You need an ASIC miner these days? Holy shit they cost how much? Alright, who’s number 2. When you start researching about Ethereum it’s pretty freaking cool. This thing could overtake Bitcoin someday and you can mine it with a GPU. Hey I have one of those!

The card

I have a 2070 super which I got shortly after they were released for under $500. I’ve been using it for video games and it’s great. Who knew there would be a run on GPUs and the cards worth more than I paid for it!

The Pool

I quickly learn that solo mining is a fool’s game with Ethereum, you need a pool. I went with Sparkpool simply because it was the largest. As the new guy I don’t need to be trying out the newest pool, I want stability. I also wanted to stay anonymous, turns out all you need is a deposit address. Nice

The miner

Fees to use a miner? The heck? I’m not afraid of a CLI, let’s go with the free one. I download the latest Ethminer. Now we hit the first real challenge as the example configurations were all over the place. After some trial and error I settle on a .bat that does;
ethminer.exe -P stratum1+tcp://
[[email protected]](mailto:[email protected]):3333

We’re mining!

On Sparkpool you can search by your wallet address. After ~10min, there I am. Cool! I’m mining! Change the sleep settings on Windows and I’m mining while I sleep. Now when can I get my earnings? Let’s see they pay out at 0.1 ETH….. Let’s do some math…. Yeah that’s not happening for a long time. Ahh, they pay out on the 28th of the month even if you don’t make 0.1. Just got to wait. And this is where I was for a few weeks

On to Upgrading

I’m mining, what a fun start. I’m not in a position to put together a rig though. Maybe there’s some reasonable changes I can make

The Miner

Let’s start easy, the miner. I see post on EtherMining that Phoenixminer is just the best (I’ve since read the same thing for about 3 different miners). Ok, I don’t like the idea of a fee but I have stats at Sparkpool, let’s see what it does to the average. Around this time I found the guide on EtherMining and learned about adding commands to my .bat file for etherminer or phoenixminer as well. My .bats now start with
setx GPU_FORCE_64BIT_PTR 0
setx GPU_MAX_HEAP_SIZE 100
setx GPU_USE_SYNC_OBJECTS 1
setx GPU_MAX_ALLOC_PERCENT 100
setx GPU_SINGLE_ALLOC_PERCENT 100
Turns out I do get a bit better results with Phoeixminer. Nothing amazing but it is better. And the reporting in the CMD prompt is better. I can see information on my card and hashrate. Cool!
I also finally take the time to find my electricity bill to see what I’m paying. My cost per kWh is 0.09, lucky me! Plug that into mining calculators online, I’m ok. At least I’m not losing money.

How about a 3070?

Alright, this is fun and all, but what if we can could do more. My computer has some more PCIe slots. How much could I make with a Nvidia 3xxx? Turns out betterhash let’s you know. You can plug in any card there and get a hash estimate. Turns out I could make over $100 month with a 3070. At $600 the card would pay for itself in 6 months!
….There are no freaking cards for sale. Anywhere. What the heck. How late am I too this game? And the ones that are available, they want $980 for a 3070? I look deep. I make the half hour trip to Micro Center and get told to try coming in at 8am every day and I might get lucky. Not looking good.
Finally I recall I used to order stuff from CDW at my old IT job. I hit pay dirt! They have a 3070! It’s expensive but it’s not $900. Card ordered! (Since then, they’ve been out of stock. I got lucky)

Upgrade issue #1

I need to make room for the 3070. My 2070 Super is a 3 fan and it’s long. There’s not room in the 2nd PCIe slot in my case for the long card. I end up moving everything around and break off some plastic from the hardrive cage, I got it in!
I have a 3rd PCIE, can I put a card there? Not unless it’s super thin, the power supply is right under it. Looks like I’m limited to 2 cards for now.

Upgrade issues #2

My new 3070 is extra wide (PHY uprising edition if you care). The fans literally sit on the 2070. And with both cards in there my computer is hot! My computer feels like a heater right now. Let’s google on how to deal with heat. I learn about and download MSI Afterburner. Pretty cool tool! Not only can you see the temperature you can adjust a lot of settings on your GPU. I spin up my miner and start MSI afterburner. Ok, the 2070 is doing fine, let’s see how the 3070 is doing.. 90 degrees, ok, ok. Wait it’s Celsius, holy crap! What the heck! That’s 194 degrees F! It’s gotta be that wide ass 3070 making the fans sit on the 2nd card. The cooling air it’s sucking up is coming straight from the 2070…
I switch the cards (why did I break my hardrive cage?). Now the 2070 is back in the first slot which is not ideal, I liked the idea of using the 3070 for video games.. Spin up my miner, we are doing better. Both cards are in the mid 70s Celsius. That’s fine right? Do some googling… Crap, no it’s still too hot…
Time to upgrade the fans in the computer. Another half hour trip to Micro Center, I get a 140 and 120 size fan. I also get a fan controller because I noted that I only had 1 free fan plug in on my motherboard. The fan controller ends up fitting perfectly in a hardrive slot, like it was made for it. Fortunately I overbought my PSU and I have plenty of power slots for adding one offs like a fan controller.
Alright, I’ve filled every Fan spot on my case, there are 5 fans going…. And there blowing wrong…. After redoing everything because I messed up the fan directions…. (Remember kids, air should flow front to back and heat rises) Let’s try again!
Spin up the miners…. I’m under 70 degrees Celsius! Progress, progress. But high 60’s is still in the danger zone. Here is where I find some nice post in EtherMining on MSI afterburner settings. Raising my fan speed to almost 80, cutting my power to somewhere in the 70s, raising the memory clock to +500. Now I’m at 63 c! And my hash rate went up as a bonus!

Here I am and where I’m going

If you’ve made it this far, it’s been a learning journey for me. There are some things I can still do better at but I think I have the basics of Ethermining down. I’m happy with where I’ve gotten. I’ve also learned a ton about crypto currency.
Going forward, I might change from Sparkpool but I’m still on the fence. From EtherMining I know everyone and their mother is going to Flexpool. But I’m a small player (~100 MH/s) and waiting for 0.2 ETH for payout would take a long time which is risk. And I’m not sure what the PPLNs type plan would net me.
I’m also considering using the address for my ledger for my proceeds. It’s going to go there anyway and I would like to avoid fees from moving my coin around. I know ledger cautions about large amounts of small transactions but with a pool the payout is only once a month so I don’t think it applies. If the ledger can’t handle 12 deposits a year then I need to find something else anyway.
You know, I might have gone big but with staking being the future of Ethereum, the rising difficulty level of mining, not really having a place to put a rig or honestly the funds for one, I think I’m going to stay a small player and just see if I can eventually pay back this 3070 I bought. In the end it’s been a ton of fun and added excitement to the monotony of being quarantined to a house all day. Thank you for the forum post and the new hobby!
Were you entertained? You can always send things to 0xAD0cd237BDE28AF4Dc4E0D913285e74217384e29 (worth a shot)
submitted by teljaninaellinsar to EtherMining [link] [comments]

Moving into High-Level PvE: Guide for Beginners (Part 1, Season 12 update)

Season 12 Update: What’s New

· Updated mods section to reflect new mod structure
· A few updated thoughts on Stasis classes
· Significant update to Warmind Cell section, including information on Seventh Seraph weapons
· New recommendations for defensive and offensive mod loadouts
· Recommendations updated for Season 12 mods
· Weapons recommendations
Part 2 of this guide is here: https://www.reddit.com/DestinyTheGame/comments/k5fzne/moving_into_highlevel_pve_guide_for_beginners/

Before We Get Started

Why you should trust me

I’ve got a few hundred raid completions, including flawless completions of the post-year 1 raids, and I’ve soloed each of the dungeons flawlessly as well. But also: I’m not an amazing player; I’d say I’m above average but I am nowhere near as talented as some of the people whose videos you can watch online, or indeed who are in my clan. I am someone who has to work hard to get good and who makes up for a lack of talent with stubbornness and a willingness to learn from my mistakes.
So this advice is not for the amazing D2 player. It’s for someone who’s just starting to move into raiding or is thinking about working on raid triumphs, or soloing a dungeon for the first time, or maybe dreaming of earning the Conqueror title. My main goal is to help you become a better teammate—to know what weapons, mods, and armor you need in different situations, and to learn how to use them. Hopefully I’ll answer your basic questions and give you a starting point from which you can learn more.

What do I mean by high-level PvE content?

  1. Raids: multi-encounter structures that require team coordination and adaptation to/knowledge of various raid-specific mechanics (ball throwing, buff swapping, tethering, cranium charging, etc.)
  2. Sublight challenges: master and grandmaster nightfalls, master nightmare hunts, solo 1280 lost sectors, 1280 empire hunts, or any new content where players are likely to be 0-25 light levels below the enemies they face. This content includes raids and dungeons in their initial season of being offered.
  3. Solo challenges: attempts to accomplish 1 and 2 by yourself or with a suboptimal team (like doing a raid with three people instead of six).

General Advice

As you begin to push into more challenging content, one lesson is key: dying is not good. That’s kind of a strange lesson to have to learn, but the reality is that Destiny does not punish you much for dying in ordinary content. That makes it easy to develop habits that will serve you poorly in raids and other situations, where dying can lead to a cascading series of mishaps that will cause a wipe or an extinguish mechanic. So one of your main goals as you start playing in these situations is to try to get better at not dying.
The other thing to begin to learn—and which the game does not really force you to learn—is how to make weapons, armor, and ability builds that synergize both internally, in relation to your own character, and externally, in relation to your teammates and the environment. Understanding, for instance, not only your role in a given raid encounter but the roles of your teammates, and knowing what classes or weapons they’re running so that you can communicate with them about what to do next, are both critical to becoming a stronger team player. And understanding how your armor and weapons, your mods and class abilities, all interact is critical to your being able to maximize your impact as a solo player.
All this advice is focused on building up the basic sets of gear that will help you through difficult PvE content. I have probably forgotten many things, and of course you can always do things with an off-meta or weird loadout, either because you’re a masochist or because you want to challenge yourself. What’s below focuses on the basics.

Part 1: Armor and Armor Mods

In general a good PvE build will be a fully masterworked set of armor with high recovery and discipline or intellect. (Resilience sounds good but has only a very small impact on PvE combat.) For raids you might end up using melee abilities, but for sublight content you will mostly be fighting at range, and meleeing only in a panic. Grenades have a wide variety of important uses (hence discipline), and supers (and super energy) are also always useful (hence intellect), so spec into one of those if you can. In general armor stats matter much less in PvE than PvP; your armor mods will almost certainly not be focused on other things, which we’ll discuss in a second.
For now it’s worth noting that high-end PvE content tends to feature a pretty limited set of class and subclass options, along with a certain number of key exotic armor pieces.
Hunters: (1) Top or bottom tree void, with Orpheus Rigs (especially top tree) or Sixth Coyote or Wormhusk Crown (the last two for solo especially). (2) Bottom tree solar with Celestial Nighthawk for one-shot boss damage, mainly in raids. (3) Middle tree solar with Assassin’s Cowl for heal on knife melee, for solo content. (4) Stasis, especially for solo content where the grenades and debuffs help with champions.
Titans: (1) Top tree void, for the bubble, along with the Helm of Saint-14 (in some circumstances), or (2) middle tree void, for the barrier, with Ursa Furiosas for orb generation. In some situations, particularly when using Xenophage, Titans will run with Actium War Rigs for the reload benefit.
Warlocks: (1) Top tree void with Contraverse Hold gauntlets for frequent charged grenade use, or (2) Bottom tree void with Nezarec’s Sin, for a devour-focused build especially useful for soloing content (in which case you would want to be running a void energy weapon). (3) Much more often, middle tree solar with either Phoenix Protocol for super regen or Lunafaction Boots for reload benefit, for almost any content involving groups. (4) Middle tree arc with Geomag Stabilizers for some high-end content like grandmaster nightfalls.
Season 12 has added stasis subclasses to all three groups. One of the huge advantages of all stasis supers is that they allow for significant crowd control—for slowing and stunning enemies to take them temporarily or permanently out of the fight. This is true for supers, melees, and grenades. Of the three stasis classes I find the Warlock and Titans supers a bit weak for high-end content, but the grenades and melees to be very strong (especially when paired with the correct seasonal mods).
Note that the most common subclasses for group content are the ones that boost the entire team (Titan bubble, Warlock well), protect the entire team (Titan barrier), make allies invisible (Hunter smoke grenade on bottom tree), or control/manage and debuff enemies (Hunter tether, the stasis classes). Solo players tend to focus intensely on survival abilities—the Warlock devour, the Hunter invis, or the healing melees of top tree void Titan, bottom tree arc Titan, or top tree Arc hunter.
The other thing to say is that roaming supers—arc Hunter, solar or arc Titan, top and bottom arc Warlock, middle void Warlock—are generally not good in high-end PvE, especially if you’re sublight. They simply don’t deal enough damage quickly enough to be viable. This kind of content emphasizes one-shot supers like Celestial/Golden Gun or Nova Bomb for damage, and supers like the well or Titan barriebubbles, for protection.
Must-have exotic armor: Hunter: Orpheus Rigs and Celestial Nighthawk (for group play), Sixth Coyote (solo). Titan: Helm of Saint-14, Ursa Furiosa, Actium War Rig (group), Synthoceps (solo). Warlock: Phoenix Protocol, Lunfaction Boots, and Contraverse Hold (group or solo), Nezarec’s Sin (solo). Of the new Season 12 armor exotics, three have some utility here: Icefall Mantle, which can allow a Titan to tank a single champion (at 10-15 light levels below, at 25 this becomes quite hard); Necrotic Grips, good for Warlocks doing low-level add clear in raids, and Precious Scars, the Titan helmet that gives an overshield when rezzing—very useful in grandmaster nightfalls where a rez can often be a deathtrap.
In season 12, changes to the seasonal artifact mean that only solar and stasis subclasses have the ability to stun Overload champions with their grenades; this means that those classes have suddenly become more viable (and void less dominant) for high-end PvE work. More on that later.

Armor Mods

The key difference between high-level PvE content and ordinary content or PvP content is the importance of armor mods. Where PvP builds tend to focus on statistics like Recovery or Mobility, PvE armor tends to focus on damage resistance.
The Destiny mod system is unfortunately pretty bewildering. There are many many choices and it’s not clear how much any of them matters. So let me cover a few things—all of these now updated for Season 12.

The first mod slot

This mod slot allows you to boost your character’s basic stats. For group PvE content, you’ll want to focus on Recovery (which affects how quickly your health begins to regen when you’re not being hit), Intellect (which increases super regen speed), and Discipline (for grenades). For solo content that relies heavily on a single ability to survive—like the Hunter’s dodge, which regens faster with high Mobility, or the Titan’s healing void melee, which regens faster with high Strength—you will want to focus on those things specifically.
In the previous seasons this mod slot could be used for resistance mods, which are central to many PvE builds. But that has all gone away with Season 12, which means that this slot is less interesting, and less important, than it used to be.

Legacy, Combat, and Raid mod slots

These should be focused on one or more of the following goals, in order of importance:
  1. Resistance mods (on chest armor) that reduce incoming damage
  2. Mods that stun or disrupt or otherwise affect champions (arms or class item)
  3. Raid-specific mods (final mod slot only, and only on raid armor)
  4. Charged with Light and Warmind Cell mods (fourth slot)
  5. Ammo Finder (helmet) and Ammo Scavenger (boots) mods.
  6. For grandmaster nightfalls in particular, finisher mods (mainly Special Finisher) that go on your class item and allow you to trade super energy for special ammo drops.

Resistance Mods

Resistance mods come in four types: energy, melee, sniper, and concussive dampener. They all go on your chest armor. Melee reduces any damage done within 5m (does not have to be melee damage) by 25%. Sniper does the same for damage done from 29m or farther. Concussive reduces splash damage from grenades/boomers. These mods stack, with the second mod getting you to 40% damage resistance. The same goes for the energy resist mods.
Since you only have two slots, you will probably want to change them depending on the activity. For Gambit or really any content where you’re at or above the appropriate power level, melee/concussive or melee/melee is quite strong, since you’ll probably be mixing it up with mobs on the regular. For grandmaster nightfalls and other sublight content, snipeconcussive is a good place to start.

Anti-Champion Mods

These mods come in two types: weapon-specific mods, which go on your arms, and grenade or melee mods, which go on your class item. These mods come from the seasonal artifact and therefore change each season (which is why I have to update this guide).
Most high-end content will have two kinds of champions, so you’ll want to go into encounters making sure that you or your fireteam can stun, disrupt, or stagger the appropriate champions with the appropriate weapons.
For season 12 these mods are: Unstoppable Schwarzschild Condenser (2-Cost, Class Item), which allows Void melees to stagger Unstoppables, and Thermal Overload (2-Cost, Class Item), which allows solar and stasis grenades to disrupt Overload champions.
Another very useful champion mod in season 12 is Surge Eater, which restores your grenade whenever you stagger or disrupt a champion. You can combine this with Thermal Overload to stun Overload champions and immediately get your grenade back, allowing you to stun them again as soon as that’s possible.
In general I would say that the most obvious/basic combo this season is Surge EateThermal Overload… the melee mods are going to be hard to use because it’s going to be hard to get close enough to champions (in sublight content) to actually land a melee hit. The same is true for the Unstoppable Shotgun mod, which is also very highly priced at 7 energy.

Raid and Other Activity-Specific Mods (5th slot)

These include mods that affect Last Wish, Garden of Salvation, and the Deep Stone Crypt, as well as Nightmare Hunts on the moon. For Last Wish Taken Barrier and Taken Armaments are both incredibly useful; for GoS you really only need Enhanced Relay Defender.
For Nightmare Hunts I find that only the Nightmare Breaker mods really come in handy; the others not so much. You can read more about them here: https://www.reddit.com/DestinyTheGame/comments/dkpssk/breakdown_of_the_nightmare_mods_banisher_breake.
In Year 2 and Year 3 armor, these mods go in the fourth slot. Year 4 (Beyond Light) armor has a fifth dedicated slot for these mods, which frees up the fourth slot for other things.
Early analysis of the DSC mods suggests that for most six-person content they are not really worthwhile. See here: https://www.reddit.com/DestinyTheGame/comments/k2mi9s/quick_look_at_the_dsc_raid_mods_minus_suppresso?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

Charged with Light Mods

The CwL system works as follows: certain mods (colored in green) give you stacks of CwL, up to a maximum of two stacks. Other mods (yellow) spend those stacks. And a third set of mods (white) changes the number of stacks you get or can have (increases your stack maximum, up to five, or gives you two stacks instead of one each time you get a stack).
The basic system is this: (1) Get CwL (2) Spend CwL. The easiest way to get CwL is to use the Taking Charge mod, which gives you charges for picking up a light orb. Combined with a masterworked weapon that drops orbs on fast kills, you can pretty much guarantee that you’ll spend most of the time CwL. You can also get charges from mods that give charges on weapon damage (kills with a certain weapon give you charges) or action triggers (breaking a shield, doing a finisher). For Season 12, Abyssal Charge, in the sixth row of the artifact, will give you CwL for void melee final blows.
So now you have charges. How should you spend them? One option is to look for damage resistance or damage buffs. The best damage resist mod is Protective Light, an absolutely crucial choice that gives you 50% damage resistance when an enemy breaks your shield. I use it almost all the time. Useful damage boost mods include High-Energy Fire (generic 20% damage buff till you kill an enemy), Lucent Blade (for swords), and Surprise Attack (for sidearms).
Other CwL mods will give you chances to drop special ammo, return grenade or melee energy, heal you on grenade kills, and more.
For lower-level PvE content I tend to use damage mods like Lucent Blade or Surprise Attack. For scarier content I’m almost always on Protective Light.
If you have room for mods that increase your stacks, Stacks on Stacks (gives two stacks for each one you earn), Charged Up (increases total stacks by one), and Superpowered (increases total stacks by two) are all useful here.
TL:DR: if you do nothing else use Taking Charge (green) and Protective Light (yellow), and get more fancy once you understand more.

Warmind Cell mods

Like Charged with Light, this system involves creating an opportunity to affect the gameworld (by making a Warmind Cell), and then using that opportunity (the Cell) in a certain way. You create a cell by getting a kill using a Seraph weapon (which now are world drops; Ikelos 1.2 weapons also count as Seraph Weapons). Once the cell exists you can either pick it up or shoot it. Shooting it causes it to explode, and a number of WC mods increase the range of that explosion or add effects to it. Picking up the cell will allow you to throw or, or will (with a Warmind’s Light mod) Charge you with Light, or have some other effect.
Here are the Seraph weapons currently available. Names include “Seventh Seraph” except where noted:
Kinetic: auto rifle, hand cannon
Energy: smg (Seraph and Ikelos), sniper (Ikelos), sidearm, shotgun (Seraph and Ikelos)
Heavy: machine gun
When I’m playing I’ll tend to run an auto/shotgun/Xenophage loadout for max solar explosion damage, unless I’m running a void Warlock, in which case I use the sidearm (void) with Nezarec’s sin. For some explosion-oriented content I’ll run the hand cannon, Jotunn, and the machine gun.
The most basic way to use these cells is to create them and then shoot them. A mod like Global Reach will then give your cell explosions far greater range and effect. But you can also combine numbers of mods to create some pretty cool synergistic builds, as you see here:
https://www.forbes.com/sites/paultassi/2020/03/27/a-destiny-2-solar-inferno-warlock-warmind-cell-build-for-more-room-clearing-fun/#5ec7d0c01c30
You can find a guide to all the Warmind Cell mods here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Kqaf2MdmUm1Ll6jCh-Rt0k6j2-nYCwf5lbbRLtXyr7M/edit#
But here are the basics: Solar mods generally affect cell explosion damage; Void mods create buff and debuff effects that do not rely on exploding the cells; and Arc mods create effects upon mod pickup.
The key to Warmind Cell is to understand that cells, once created, belong to everyone. Effects from shooting or picking up the cells are pegged to the person who picks them up or shoots them. So if Person A has Rage of the Warmind on and shoots a cell created by Person B, who does not have it on, then the explosion will be affected by Rage of the Warmind. And if Person B has Warmind’s Protection on, they will get 50% damage protection from mobs standing near a cell created by Person A—even if Person A does not have that mod on.
What this means that an entire fireteam of 6 people can coordinate Warmind Cell mods to create synergistic effects. I describe some of those below.

Recommended Builds

Add-clear Explosion Fun Build
Global Reach (1 neutral), Wrath of Rasputin (1 solar), Rage of the Warmind (5 solar), Incinerating Light (3 Solar), Reactive Pulse (CwL, 3 Arc). Ideally paired with a weapon that causes solar splash damage (Ace of Spaces, Sunshot, Jotunn, Xenophage, Martyr’s Retribution; the Warlock exotic chest Chromatic Fire also causes explosions on kinetic precision kills) and/or a solar subclass.
This build involves creating cells and then using the explosions from the cells to create more cells, killing everything within 30m (that’s the range of the explosion, Rage of the Warmind doubles that). Wrath of Rasputin creates more cells from solar splash so you’ll be making cells from your non-Seraph weapons and your class abilities (if you’re running a solar class).
Incinerating Light charges you with light when you kill three or more things with a cell explosion, and the Reactive Pulse mod creates a 30m Arc explosion when you take damage while surrounded—essentially destroying red-bar enemies all around you.
This is a build for content where you’re higher or even in power level with your enemies; it’s super fun. In a perfect world it turns your character into the walking center of a series of explosions, and feels awesome.
Defensive Build
Global Reach (1 neutral), Wrath of Rasputin (1 solar), Taking Charge (CwL, 3 neutral), Protective Light (CwL, 2 void), Warmind’s Protection (2 void).
This build has a number of variations depending on whether you’re running a solar class and/or coordinating with a team. A maximum defensive build swaps out Wrath of Rasputin for Cellular Suppression (2 void); you generate fewer cells but the cells you make help more, since shooting cells when you have CS on will send out a stunning pulse that will stun red-bar enemies for 10 seconds. Warmind’s Protection gives you a 50% damage buff against enemies near a cell.
If you have a full fireteam with multiple people using Warmind builds you can coordinate some of these buffs (making sure a couple people have Cellular Suppression on, for instance, or having someone else run Grasp of the Warmind (3 void), which allows you to pick cells up and move them to better places.
Here's a list of some fun builds for you:
Neutral, good for anything
  1. Taking Charge, Protective Light, Global Reach, Wrath of Rasputin, Fireteam Medic
  2. Taking Charge, Protective Light, Stacks on Stacks, Global Reach, Wrath of Rasputin
  3. Taking Charge, Protective Light, Reactive Pulse, Supercharged, Stacks on Stacks
  4. Global Reach, Wrath of Rasputin, Fireteam Medic, Warmind’s Protection, Cellular Suppression (this is the build I use most often in non-challenging content)
Aggressive
  1. Global Reach, Wrath of Rasputin, Rage of the Warmind, Fireteam Medic, Power of Rasputin
  2. Taking Charge, High-Energy Fire, Reactive Pulse, Supercharged, Lucent Blade (sword) or Argent Ordnance (Rockets) or Surprise Attack (sidearms)
  3. Fusion Rifle or Shotgun-focused build: Supercharged, Quick Charge, Heavy Handed, High-Energy Fire, Charged Up
  4. Grenade-focused build: Taking Charge, Firepower, Heal Thyself, Supercharged, Stacks on Stacks
Defensive
  1. Taking Charge, Protective Light, Global Reach, Wrath of Rasputin, Warmind’s Protection
  2. Taking Charge, Protective Light, Reactive Pulse, Global Reach, Warmind’s Protection

Part 2 of this guide, on weapons and the current metas, is here: https://www.reddit.com/DestinyTheGame/comments/k5fzne/moving_into_highlevel_pve_guide_for_beginners/
submitted by Ciborium616 to DestinyTheGame [link] [comments]

From A New Player: Game Is Too Play To Win With A Little Pay To Win As Well As Unbalanced

Disclaimer: Parts of this all may be wrong or correct. I don't know. If anything is correct here it is how it feels to be a new player in this game. Don't be an ass to me because of my thoughts and opinions. Thanks.
I joined this game with 3 other irl friends about a day after they started playing. On the surface this game looks great with its loot system, its realistic combat, the progression system to give loot a lot of meaning, and the loss on death in game that is put on your back to cause anxiety for it. It feels like Rainbow Six Siege, Arma, and Rust had a three way baby. Well the first few days our squad got destroyed a lot by both scavs and players due to both bad callouts and poor map knowledge. That is fair. If you don't know the game yet, you can't expect to win. We find out the problems we are doing wrong, pull up online maps on our second monitors, and get a system for callouts going. Now we are doing decent and getting scav kills due to knowing where players spawn, which routes they would take, and where the scavs spawn so we know where to be looking for them for kills. We have been doing this across Factory, Shorline, Customs, and Interchange. Factory felt like the best map to get our coms and team awareness down due to the size and simplicity of the map. Even if it is a PvP bloodhouse, it didn't feel all that sweaty and gave time to get a hold of things. We did this for about a good 4 or so days before we felt damn comfortable with our ability as a team. Then we started learning Interchange as it wasn't a map based on long range engagements across open fields. We developed a few good routes around Green that gives some good loot from toolboxes and computer rigs around the back storage room where people don't roam as much. Usually have to kill 2 PvE scavs at most which is easy to do. Emercom Checkpoint was our goto exfil as it had some good cover from long range PvP attackers.
A good week after now and we are playing more Shoreline and Factory to try having fun in the game. We know the hotspots of both maps and the funneling of players as well. Factory has been nothing but getting stomped on by high level players who rush us the moment we try to kill a scav and 1/6th of the time getting killed by players right off the bat of PMC spawn. Shoreline is a mixed bag. It's either getting killed by a player we have no chance of finding or getting killed by a player who is camping an exfil location we need to go to. Shoreline has been a low success map for us as to where Factory is about 30% or so success. Thus far it has been getting killed by things we stand no chance against. No level of map knowledge has been helping us as these players have high tier gear and high tier weapons. We try the acclaimed overpowered shooting for the legs maneuver on them but we always get beamed hardcore by these guys. We will all put on SKS setups and armor but we keep getting destroyed by these players.
Our first guy quits after a run of Interchange due to the lack of winning or feeling of winning in the game. He just finally gave up after getting screwed over so much. Our second guy quits two days after from a match on Reserve after getting beamed by a high level player who squad wiped the three of us. Then my third and I quit the game on the same day after the same thing kept happening over and over of getting destroyed by these players with gear that outclasses us in every way.
What Drove Me Crazy In This Game:
Quests: The quests in this game are so screwed over for newer players. Some of them are fine like the ones that you hand over items for but others are so bs for the level they start at. The one I hate the most is ironically called "Introduction" where you have to go to the map Woods, find a quest item in the middle of the map, and exfil on the other side of the map. I got killed so many times on this map and that quest left such a bad taste for me with this game. I was always getting beamed by players from locations I couldn't find them from. It wasn't until I played this map at night that I finally got to the exfil and holy shit was it the most stressful thing I did in a video game for a long time. The quest I was doing after is called "Operation Aquarius - Part 1" and every time I go to dorms, day or night, I'm getting beamed by rats in the building. Mostly players. I completely gave up on it.
Play To Win: There is a lot of play to win in this game as there has been for at least two years now as I have seen from this SubReddits history. Gear and Ammo being locked off, hideout having dumb requirements for stash, and quests being camped by those players who grinded ahead of ya. I started three weeks ahead of the wipe as a new player and I feel at this point I stand no chance against these players. This is coming from someone who has played Rust since the beginning and have gone through the wiping process week after week. I've still yet to upgrade my stash once and I bet they made it that way to get ya to pay more which brings me to my next point.
Pay To Win: The difference in tiers gear wise doesn't look awful really from first glance. Then the major thing off the bat is the stash size differences. Tier 1 gives 280 stash size, Tier 2 gives 380 stash size, Tier 3 gives 480 stash size, and Tier 4 gives 680 stash size. So at the start of every wipe, those people with the larger account tier will have less to worry about size wise than you. Just look at my stash after optimizations to it https://imgur.com/a/scA31Xe which I don't think I've been doing all that bad at managing after all the Tarkov Wiki research. You also save all that grinding and money you have to spend that you could spend on gearsets and whatnot. Then there is the biggest one of them all which is the pouch size you get. Tier 1 is a 2x2, Tier 2 is a 2x2, Tier 3 is a 2x3, and Tier 4 is a 3x3. These pouches give mixed feelings for me. Yeah they make it easier for lower players to get what they need guaranteed but they also make it harder during a raid to get meds and/or ammo from players you kill. There have been so many times I killed PMCs and I found no meds on them when I needed them most. Yeah I understand that there will be pistol dudes running out there with zero meds on them as I've done it too but I'd think a fully kitted player would have meds on him. This container takes away that many more items from the kill/loot you just got from a player. 9 slots of items being taken from a kill is quite a bit. I have mixed feelings on it but it feels like just another way for these devs to pry for more money from their players. $140 for the final edition from a game that is claimed to be "Early Access/In Beta" is a ridiculous asking. I don't even think Call of Duty is worth that price with all of its DLC.
Balance: From a new player, armor feels like the most overpowered thing in this game. Coming across a player in tier 5 and above armor is such a pain. I can never kill them and it sure as hell doesn't help that I don't have access to the bullet types that can possibly do that. I'm still at Tier 1 of all my traders and I'm at Account Level 9. What hope do I have to kill these people? An idea to balance these juggernaut armors out would to be to hinder turning speed and movement speed a little as that is what they actually do in real life. That could give players a bit of a chance against them. The other thing balance wise I hate would be the trader leveled items. Yeah I get that the higher tiers should have better stuff in them but at the same time you can't leave just junk in tier 1 traders. That is incredibly unbalanced for players returning midwipe or newer players. This game shouldn't require you to play day 1 of the wipe nor commit all of your life to playing it until end wipe. One last note I have is the exfil location rats. It really is demoralizing to actually get a good run of killing 3 pmcs and 5 scavs to only then die to some rat camping the darkest corner of the exfil location. There needs to be some radius to each exfil that gives you a notification in some menu that says "There is 1 or so people in this exfil locations radius" so at least then you can either stand a chance against them.
Those are all my thoughts on this game as a new player that has played for two or so weeks. I feel like everything in this game is trying to screw me over. The game feels like a game of "Powerful player stomps less powerful player". The game gets so depressing, stressful, and demoralizing. That's all I have to say and I am out.
submitted by Anon_3666 to EscapefromTarkov [link] [comments]

Where can I find a CPU

My PCs CPU shorted and I’m looking for literally anything to replace the slot for now (cheap because I’m really poor with the pandemic and I have to use the little money I have to pay for my school classes because my family can’t)
The prices are double what they normally should be on Amazon.
eBay is the same
Ryzen CPUs are nearing the $200 and are mostly out of stock
All the stores around me are picked clean
Most of the online PC stores seem to be picked clean of normal priced good cpus, my build is a little more expensive because we could afford it last year so I don’t want to put a bad knockoff brand into my expensive MB and fry it or Rick the other components.
Nobody I know has a spare CPU I can use until I can buy a new one either at inflated prices or wait until the prices drop back to normal.
It’s not that important for me to have my PC running, I mean I don’t use it for school mostly just as my only form of entertainment that isn’t laying in bed browsing Reddit on my phone. Mobile games aren’t really very interesting so I just browse Reddit. So yk as I said it’s not all that important and I realize I’m so privileged just to have a PC even if it doesn’t work so I’m not too worried about it, I just miss my gaming rig and being able to reliably stream. I’m using a 6 year old laptop with half a screen plugged into a monitor which doesn’t really do the job.
Like I said not a big deal, but I would appreciate any suggestions of where to find a CPU that is at least regular price and something that is at least quality enough not to fry my MB.
(Even The $60 Ryzen cpus are going for over $120 a lot of places)
submitted by 405TheWise to buildapc [link] [comments]

[Guide] How to make money in EFT

EDIT : Thanks to everybody for pointing out the few mistakes/improvements that can be made in this new-player level guide.
For the sake of summarizing here :
- Intel documents are NOT worth 250k. I didn't check them on the flea before writing this and for some reason I always remembered them at 250k. Game is in maintenance so I can't check the real price. That being said, it's still profitable to craft USB into Intel, it's just not x2 profitable.
- Scav case : moonshine / intel docs, some people seem to say they've never been profitable. I personally *did not* measure those, I eyeballed it. I'm working on so much shit that I didn't bother. On average I think that I'm in a net positive, but it's as believable as people saying they're not : without proof we can't really say for sure. That bein said, it's certainly more profitable to run lower-tier scav runs that are *faster* when you're online, and to run a moonshine or intel when you log off. It's more efficient to get a lot of runs while you can re-start them every time.
- Crafting moonshine : It's not profitable to spam it ; I was under the assumption that the average player who will read this will usually not play for 4-5 hours straight and will end up collecting yesterday's moonshine, craft a new one, and that's it. If that's you're rythm then yes, spam it. If you intend to play more than one craft worth's of time, then you will craft moonshine faster than you can spend it, and it's not really worth to sell it on the flea except to up your market reputation for a small loss (about 10k). So in short : craft moonshine to be able to start a moonshine run for when you log off, but you don't *need* more than that.

Check this out

Here is some actual data on the lavatory !!

Hey everybody !

I know it can be a struggle to get a stable economy in this game, especially when you die a lot. Today I'm gonna try and give a few guidelines on how to make money safely, efficiently, fast, or in any other way we can think of.
If you're struggling to stay above the 15-20 million rouble treshold, this guide is definitely for you.
Very often I'll hear newer players say "Damn I can't seem to make money, I keep loosing. Every time I take gear I die instantly". There is some truth in that. Today I'll help you improve your survival rate, but most importantly I'll unbalance the other side of the equation. When you complain about losing a lot of money, I will help you spend less by a significant margin, as well as earn more. You'll also get rid of gear fera naturally.
Remember this throughout this very, very long read : It all depends on how you want to play, and how much. Some of these tips will not fit how you want to play the game, and like Nikita always says : this game is supposed to be fun before anything else.

1. Hideout

Safety Score : 100%
Reward : Moderate but very stable.
Maxing your hideout should be one of your top priorities, probably before telling your mom how much you love her every now and then. If you're not doing either of those, the big gamer in you knows what to do.
Early wipe, save your fuel for when you're online and playing. If you're playing, your generator should definitely be running and all your stations should be crafting something.
Once you have Medstation 1, Workbench 1 and Lavatory 2, you really have no reason to turn your generator off when you're playing.
Once you have the bitcoin farm, you should never turn off the generator.
Medstation :
Craft salewas and/or IFAKs permanently. They cost 8k and sell for 15k. That's a net profit of about 25k / hour for salewas, as well as never having to buy any.
Lavatory :
Always be crafting Bleach. If you have 2 empty blue fuel, use those empty cans to craft a Magazine case.
You can then keep the magazine cases until you've enough for your liking and sell those for a good profit.
The bleach you will use to buy the 6B47 helmets which are better than the SSh-68 helmets. Buying from 2x bleach barter at ragman level 1 means you get the helmet for 18k (instead of 33k on the market). This helmet has better head coverage, less slow/negative effects, less weight, has a slot for a mount, has +11 ergonomics AND is cheaper than the 22k SSh-68. That being said, it has a slight noise reduction that the Ssh does not have. If you wear headphones I'd say this is negligible but debatable. I prefer to have the extra protection and ergonomics for sure, considering it's slightly cheaper.

You can also barter for that helmet and instantly sell it back for a profit (five times) and level up ragman money requirements.
Bleach can also be traded for the Blackjack backpack at level 4, as well as the TTV rig at level 2. You should definitely do it.
Sell excess bleach on the flea market when the prices are around 10.5k or more. (around midnight Central European Time).
Workbench :
You can buy Power Cords and craft Wires forever and always make a profit. Buy in the morning and sell in the evening for better profits (CET timezone). For even more profit, you can craft gunpowders and ammo which tend to also be ridiculously pricy at night.
Buying grenades from Peacekeeper and crafting green (Eagle) gunpowder is a good way to make a lot of money and level up Peacekeeper.
Intel Center :
You main objective is to get this one to level 3 for reduced fees and better quest rewards, but also access to the bitcoin farm at level 2.
If you need FiR for quests, craft that. When you're done craft Intel Documents at all times (buy the USB), and use it for scav case or sell for a x2 profit. ( 3x40 for USB = 120, documents sell for 250)
Bitcoin Farm :
Once you have it, spend all your money on GPU until its maxxed, then level it up even more. The BTC farm is definitely worth it. At 50GPU you need to connect every 15 hours to clic. If you can't, keep it level 2 and connect every 24 hours to clic. Even at level 1 its worth. But its much, much faster at higher levels.
From 0 to 50 GPUs it takes about 30 days to pay for itself. GPUs should not be sold until you maxxed it.
Water Collector :
Must be running at all times. Buy the components if you don't have them.
Booze Generator :
Must be running at all times. Buy the components if you don't have them.
Scav Case :
Always have it running on moonshine, and use intel documents once you're done crafting one.
Nutrition Unit :
It's not really worth crafting sugar to put in the Booze gen, as the price for chocolate is pretty much = the price of sugar. So buy the sugar instead and craft something else. I tend to craft Hot Rods when the prices are good (morning) and then use them to barter 5.45 BS Ammo with Prapor or sell for a profit.

If you do all that, you should have about 150k an hour fairly easily. Don't forget to check it between every raid.

2. Traders

Safety Score : 100%
Reward : Quite good.
Once your mom has received all the love she deserves and your hideout is taken care of, you should have max traders (traders are a requirement for most of the hideout anyway).
Traders level 4 will net you much better prices on most mods and open very good barter trades.
Buy as much as you can from barter trades. You can buy almost everything from it, and it's usually at least 25% cheaper to buy the requirements and then do the barter. Ragman4 has the CPC Armored Rig which is level 5 armor, you'll get it for about 200k instead of 250k on the flea. The Slick is also much cheaper. The Blackjack backpack is literally half priced.
You can also NOT use what you barter and just sell it back to a dealer (sometimes the same from which you bartered) for a profit as well as having 2 times the loyalty money increase (from bartering then from selling).
Another good example is buying a Recbat 14k from the market, getting an ADAR for skier, selling it to Mechanic and winning 8k just like that. You can find every single barter that nets a profit yourself and just buy-resell and you'll probably make another 100k every reset, if you really are struggling and have the patience. I personally advise to just use the equipment for yourself unless you're levelling traders, but I wouldn't go as far as buying all profitable items every reset.
Every trader at every level has good barters. You can make a full decent kit at level 1 traders for about 40k roubles on barter, instead of 90 if you buy it all. (Paca for masks, helmet for bleach, ADAR for recbatt, salewa from craft, backpack, etc. all barters)

Bleach is beautiful and is coveted in the real world for its ability to cure diseases.

3. Modding

Safety Score : 100%
Reward : Very profitable.
Don't mod out of your reach. Don't mod Meta. If money is an issue for you, having +1 ergo won't change your life.
For example,
Priced at 10k roubles
Priced at 45k Roubles

See where I'm going with this?
If you have money, sure, go for the Shift. If you wanna have fun and try, sure, go for it as well. But if you're struggling, buy 4 cobras and mod 4 guns for the price of 1% recoil which will not make you a gamer god anyway.
Also, do NOT buy mods from the flea market when you see you can buy them from traders. Look at the top of the market, if the mod is greyed out, look at the price. It means you don't have access (yet). If the price is too inflated for you, find another mod. There are always other mods. You can make 2 AKMs that have a difference of 2% recoil and 4 Ergonomics and have a 150k price difference. It's up to you. When money is the issue, this was the answer.

Note : Some guns are inherently much more expensive. Guns shooting 5.56 or 5.45 tend to be more expensive than 7.62. AKMs are VERY good budget guns. They're a bit harder to handle, but you can get a fully modded AK for 150-200k, where as you will have an entry level M4 for that price. 7.62 PS ammo is also incredibly cheap while being decent. Play 7.62 if you're struggling with money. It's not meta, but it's far more than enough, trust me. You'll rarely lose fights exclusively because you had PS ammo in an AKM. Rarely.

4. Statistical loadout balance

This is fairly simple yet overlooked a LOT. To be accurate, you need data. Personally I kept it in an excel spreadsheet, if you're hardcore you should do something similar.

A somewhat relevant spreadsheet I used a wipe ago to measure some of my stats
What you need to know about yourself for this :
These will help us measure how much you fuck up or not.
Lets make it simple.
If you have a 500k loadout and you usually extract with 100k, at 10% survival rate, that means you will spend 500k x 10 = 5.000.000 roubles over 10 raids on average, die 9 times, and earn 100k once. This very obvious example shows the loss.
Basically we're gonna try and balance that equation so that you never lose money on average. You'll have ups and downs obviously, but over a week or two, it'll smooth things out for you, like math always does in a pleasant conversation with a girl.

So what can you do to improve that equation ?

4.1 Improve survival rate

Seems simple enough, DIE LESS. You do not need to be good, smart, or special to die less. If you die a lot, do something different. If you die less, try more of that. Explore statistical advantages through different gameplay.
What can you do to die less practically? Here is a list of checkboxes you can tick depending on your money, skill, mood, or any other factor like the map and sheer luck:
Do all that, it'll give you a LOT of data to actually improve by just doing something different without really being fastestronger, just smarter.
And I repeat : you can do some of it, all of it, it depends on what you like, what you're comfortable with, and the time/investment you're putting in the game. It's okay to play at your own pace.

4.2 Reduce gear cost

The second part of our "profit equation" above is how much gear you take with you. Using previous tips, reduce that cost. Barters, cheaper mods, etc.

4.3 Increase extracted value

This one is not as tricky as it sounds. Basically there are two ways to extract with more money in the backpack :
The goal is to pay for the gear you will loose when you die while making a profit on top. That one time you extract if you have a MBSS backpack, you'll need items worth like 50k per slot to break even. If you take a tri-zip, suddenly it's only 30k per slot. If you take a blackjack and blackrock from good old ragman, suddenly it's 10k per slot. So you can break even by looting crickents and DVD players almost.
See where I'm going ? Always take a tri-zip or bigger unless you're doing something special. That way you can afford to loot shitty areas, take less risk, and survive more while having a little less value.
We'll cover that in a minute, but there are ways to loot high value items, moderate value and low value. Those have also different risk/reward.

All of those are also map specific. In woods I'll often go with a 6B3TM armored rig for 40k, no helmet, 20k headphones and a sniper rifle. Rest is pouched so does not count. That's less than 100k investment. All players tend to have low value gear so I never extract with a lot either so it balances out. But on Woods, my survival rate is 20% instead of my overall 40%. So I know it's not a map I can reliably make money on, because I measured that accurately over time. This example is very common and should make sense to you.
Same goes for interchange where I have more about 50% survival but will tend to go in with 600k worth of gear, but will also often extract with over 500k quite regularly. Different ratios, different values, different purposes.
You can measure your own data if you're willing to do so, or you can eyeball it. Eyeballing it is much faster but very inaccurate because you will tend to include emotions in the mix when you die. You'll remember losses ~2x more than your wins (that's somewhat scientifically proven), and if you're eyeballing your loadout you might think you have 600k but really you might have only 450k. I would advise to go hardcore and measure it all for price, initial loadout, losses and earnings, for each map.

5. Money runs

Now money runs are vast and numerous. All include different levels of risk and reward. It's up to you once again to find what you're willing to do for the time it takes, the fun it will give you and how much it will actually help you. You can always try them all for ~50 raids the sake of trying something different and see how your data is impacted. it doesn't have to be 50 in a row if you don't want to. As long as you keep track of it it can be over a whole wipe. You'd have your data ready for the next wipe :) Faster is better though.

5.1 Hatchling runs

Safety Score : 100%
Reward : Very Variable. Mentally exhausting.
Those are incredibly money efficient. You're investing a gear of 0 value, so whatever you extract with is 100% win, so you cannot possibly lose money that way. Is it fun? Is it rewarding? I don't care, to each is own. Statistcally speaking, hatchling runs are an efficient way to make money.
They do however require a little bit of knowledge, but not skill. You'll be much more efficient at doing these kind of runs if you know where to go, what to look for, and how to get there depending on your spawn. That being said, such knoweldge is easily found ; it's nothing complex, it just takes time to learn. Once again, depends on how much you're willing to invest (if not roubles, time).

5.2 Scav runs

Safety Score : 100%
Reward : Low-ish
Scav runs are also incredibly efficient for the same reason as hatchlings. Except those have a cooldown. Statisticall speaking I have noticed you should always run your scavs as fast as possible on the map where you extract both the fastest and most frequently.
The explanation is simple, lets make it simpler :
The scav is a button that makes you earn free money. When you press it the button becomes unpressable for some time, when you release the button you earn money (sometimes).
That means you want to release the button as often as possible. And for that, you need to release it as fast as possible. It's that simple. So make scavs incredibly fast. I'm talking "Run through" fast.
Unless you're looking for FiR items or doing something specific like annoying a streamer, you should literally run straight to the extract every single time, and loot what you have that doesn't make you go out of your way too much. Usually I suggest factory, go in, kill a random scav, loot it, get out.
Two weapons is at LEAST 50k, 100 if they have a scope. There you go. That's 100k every 20 minutes (or less with intel center). That's MUCH BETTER than going up to 150-200k but taking 30 minutes to extract, and taking more risk by spending more time in the map. Every second you're in someone can shoot. Nobody can shoot you in the hideout.
The exception to that rule is Scavs with a pilgrim which you can take on your favourite loot-run map, probably interchange or reserve. There you should just fill everything you can and extract once you're full, no matter what you have. 30 crickents and an extra gun is fine.

5.3 Stash runs

Safety Score : Very
Reward : Okay
Those are very very safe and can be done with a pistol and a backpack only. Very cheap, quite unchalleneged, for a moderate reward. Just go on a map that you like and run around and loot all stashes until you're full, then get out. You can vary the map/route depending on the traffic of players. Interchange and shoreline are good contenders for that.
It'll net you easy money. Not great money, but definitely safe.

5.4 Loot Runs

Safety Score : Moderate
Reward : Quite alright
Once you have better knowledge/skill you can start having a specific route in a specific map, depending on a specific spawn. So it'll take time to learn. Usually very similar than a hatchling run except this time you bring moderate gear and go for moderate loots. For example, instead of going for fast techlight, in-and-out interchange, you can decide "alright I'll loot 100% of Oli and the computers in the back", it'll take time, but it'll make good loot. More money than stashes, definitely will see scavs to kill, and most probably some more pvp. More risk. If you win that PvP you have even more loot as well. But overall good reward.
Loot runs need to be "scheduled" and thought of after several tries, so you know how much you can take per person depending on backpack size. For example you can't say "lets loot oli" if you have a 5-man with blackjacks, you'll all be empty. Adapt.

5.4 PvP

Safety Score : Insane
Reward : Unreliably moderate
This one is pretty obvious. Very risky, unpredictable rewards. Usually better than loot runs when you survive. I won't elaborate on this, because if you're reading this far you're probably struggling in PvP. And the rest of this guide already covers a fair bit.

6. Insurance

Safety Score : "Meh"
Reward : Very profitable.
Now this is very, very important. Always insure your gear. Always.
If you die you will get stuff back, pretty much for free. If you're really struggling people won't loot your "trash", so you WILL get it back.
If you play in a group it's very likely that people will hide your stuff too.
And most importantly : you can insurance fraud. This is the best way to balance the equation we talked about earlier. If you find a decent-ish gun, replace yours. You drop your initial investment by a significant margin, you will definitely get it back, and if you extract it's a flat profit. Weapons don't take inventory slot, so if you have two weapons that are not yours initially they will usually pay for your whole gear. I have quite often left my super-mega-modded HK just for an average M4 or other weapon that I can fight with, just so I can reduce my investment by 350k and up my reward by like 200k instantly. Replace your headphones all the time too, that's an easy -30+30k, same with helmets. even if it's a bit broken or slightly worse.
If you're struggling with money, try to leave every raid with at least 3-4 pars of your equipment that aren't yours initially.
But value the risk behind this. I won't leave my slick for a Paca at the third minute of a raid just to have that extra 28k. I won't leave my meta-modded HK for a naked mosin. But if it seems decent/doable, do it. It will pay off. Because even if you die, you still get your shit back, and gun is usually the most expensive part of the gear.

7. Final notes

It's all about balance. Find what works *for you* and try shit out. Really, try. You'll die, you'll learn, you'll adapt with data to back that up. I find it crazy that people will die and not try to learn from it. That's how you will improve as a player.
First you gotta get smarter, then you'll get better. And with time, skill, mechanics, gamesense, all that will improve on the side. Earning more will snowball in your favour. And if you know you're statistically okay, you will have a much smaller gear fear and enjoy the game more.

Sorry for the wall of text, you guys should be used to it with me by now :D I made these guides in video but not in english, so here I am typing it all for you guys.
Enjoy :)
submitted by SixOneZil to EscapefromTarkov [link] [comments]

Moving into High-Level PvE: Armor/Weapons Guide (Part 1)

This is a guide for players who are comfortable with the game, but have not yet moved into high-level PvE content--mainly mastegrandmaster nightfalls, flawless raids and raid challenges, soloing dungeons, and the like.
This is part 1, for part 2 of the guide (on weapons and the current meta), see here: https://www.reddit.com/DestinyTheGame/comments/ilwudw/moving_into_highlevel_pve_armorweapons_guide_part/

Why you should trust me

I’ve got a few hundred raid completions, including flawless completions of the post-year 1 raids, and I’ve soloed each of the dungeons flawlessly as well. But also: I’m not an amazing player; I’d say I’m above average but I am nowhere near as talented as some of the people whose videos you can watch online, or indeed who are in my clan. I am someone who has to work hard to get good and who makes up for a lack of talent with stubbornness and a willingness to learn from my mistakes.
So this advice is not for the amazing D2 player. It’s for someone who’s just starting to move into raiding or is thinking about working on raid triumphs, or soloing a dungeon for the first time, or maybe dreaming of earning the Conqueror title. My main goal is to help you become a better teammate—to know what weapons, mods, and armor you need in different situations, and to learn how to use them. Hopefully I’ll answer your basic questions and give you a starting point from which you can learn more.

What do I mean by high-level PvE content?

  1. Raids: multi-encounter structures that require team coordination and adaptation to/knowledge of various raid-specific mechanics (ball throwing, buff swapping, tethering, cranium charging, etc.)
  2. Sublight challenges: master and grandmaster nightfalls, master nightmare hunts, or any new content where players are likely to be 0-25 light levels below the enemies they face. This content includes raids and dungeons in their initial season of being offered.
  3. Solo challenges: attempts to accomplish 1 and 2 by yourself or with a suboptimal team (like doing a raid with three people instead of six).

General Advice

As you begin to push into more challenging content, one lesson is key: dying is not good. That’s kind of a strange lesson to have to learn, but the reality is that Destiny does not punish you much for dying in ordinary content. That makes it easy to develop habits that will serve you poorly in raids and other situations, where dying can lead to a cascading series of mishaps that will cause a wipe or an extinguish mechanic. So one of your main goals as you start playing in these situations is to try to get better at not dying.
The other thing to begin to learn—and which the game does not really force you to learn—is how to make weapons, armor, and ability builds that synergize both internally, in relation to your own character, and externally, in relation to your teammates and the environment. Understanding, for instance, not only your role in a given raid encounter but the roles of your teammates, and knowing what classes or weapons they’re running so that you can communicate with them about what to do next, are both critical to becoming a stronger team player. And understanding how your armor and weapons, your mods and class abilities, all interact is critical to your being able to maximize your impact as a solo player.
All this advice is focused on building up the basic sets of gear that will help you through difficult PvE content. I have probably forgotten many things, and of course you can always do things with an off-meta or weird loadout, either because you’re a masochist or because you want to challenge yourself. What’s below focuses on the basics.

Part 1: Armor and Armor Mods

In general a good PvE build will be a fully masterworked set of armor with high recovery and discipline or intellect. (Resilience sounds good but has no real impact on PvE combat.) For raids you might end up using melee abilities, but for sublight content you will mostly be fighting at range, and meleeing only in a panic. Grenades have a wide variety of important uses (hence discipline), and supers (and super energy) are also always useful (hence intellect), so spec into one of those if you can. In general armor stats matter much less in PvE than PvP; your armor mods will almost certainly not be focused on other things, which we’ll discuss in a second.
For now it’s worth noting that high-end PvE content tends to feature a pretty limited set of class and subclass options, along with a certain number of key exotic armor pieces.
Hunters: (1) Top or bottom tree void, with Orpheus Rigs (especially top tree) or Sixth Coyote or Wormhusk Crown (the last two for solo especially). (2) Bottom tree solar with Celestial Nighthawk for one-shot boss damage, mainly in raids. (3) Middle tree solar with Assassin’s Cowl for heal on knife melee, for solo content.
Titans: (1) Top tree void, for the bubble, along with the Helm of Saint-14 (in some circumstances), or (2) middle tree void, for the barrier, with Ursa Furiosas for orb generation. In some situations, particularly when using Xenophage, Titans will run with Actium War Rigs for the reload benefit.
Warlocks: (1) Top tree void with Contraverse Hold gauntlets for frequent charged grenade use, or (2) Bottom tree void with Nezarec’s Sin, for a devour-focused build especially useful for soloing content (in which case you would want to be running a void energy weapon). (3) Much more often, middle tree solar with either Phoenix Protocol for super regen or Lunafaction Boots for reload benefit, for almost any content involving groups. (4) Middle tree arc with Geomag Stabilizers for some high-end content like grandmaster nightfalls.
Note that the most common subclasses for group content are the ones that boost the entire team (Titan bubble, Warlock well), protect the entire team (Titan barrier), make allies invisible (Hunter smoke grenade on bottom tree), or control/manage and debuff enemies (Hunter tether). Solo players tend to focus intensely on survival abilities—the Warlock devour, the Hunter invis, or the healing melees of top tree void Titan, bottom tree arc Titan, or top tree Arc hunter.
The other thing to say is that roaming supers—arc Hunter, solar or arc Titan, top and bottom arc Warlock, middle void Warlock—are generally not good in high-end PvE, especially if you’re sublight. They simply don’t deal enough damage quickly enough to be viable. This kind of content emphasizes one-shot supers like Celestial/Golden Gun or Nova Bomb for damage, and supers like the well or Titan barriebubbles, for protection.
Must-have exotic armor: Hunter: Orpheus Rigs and Celestial Nighthawk (for group play), Sixth Coyote and Assasin's Cowl (solo). Titan: Helm of Saint-14, Ursa Furiosa, Actium War Rig (group), Synthoceps or Crest of Alpha Lupi) (solo). Warlock: Phoenix Protocol, Lunfaction Boots, and Contraverse Hold (group or solo), Nezarec’s Sin (solo).

Armor Mods

The key difference between high-level PvE content and ordinary content or PvP content is the importance of armor mods. Where PvP builds tend to focus on statistics like Recovery or Mobility, PvE armor tends to focus on damage resistance.
The Destiny mod system is unfortunately pretty bewildering. There are many many choices and it’s not clear how much any of them matters. So let me cover a few things.

The first mod slot

Though it is natural to think that this slot should be filled with mods that boost your stats (Recovery, Discipline, and so on), that is absolutely not the case for most PvE work. This slot should be almost entirely filled with resist mods: major resist, minor resist, boss resist, and concussive dampener, as well as the elemental resistance mods (solar, arc, and void). Why? Because they keep you alive.
Though these mods stack with diminishing returns after the third one, one minomajor resist mod gives about 9% damage resistance, two about 18%, three about 24%, and so on. (See https://www.reddit.com/DestinyTheGame/comments/ep6g1k/minormajorboss_resist_armor_mod_stacking_test/ for details). That’s a huge huge difference and anyone not running some combination of these mods in PvE is essentially leaving health on the table.
On the other end of the mod slots, slot four, can also include some very important resist mods: Hive Barrier, Taken Barrier, and Fallen Barrier. (These mods and all the other species-specific mods can be farmed: Hive from Menagerie and Crown of Sorrow, Taken from the two “secret” chests in Last Wish, and Fallen from the post-Sparrow race chest in Scourge of the Past.) Each of these offers a 20% damage resistance for a short time after taking damage. They stack with the first slot resist mods as well as with each other (so that a Taken mob that is also Hive will trigger 40% damage resistance, if you have both mods on).
All together these resistance mods are the basis of any successful PvE loadout. You can run a generic mix for much content (one major, one minor, one concussive, one boss, etc.) and then tune the mix for specific nightfalls or dungeons as necessary.
One of the major exceptions to the use of resistance mods comes when you are trying to maximize a single characteristic in order to improve a certain build. For instance a Hunter with 100 mobility gets their dodge ability back every 9 seconds; in solo content that will be the difference between life or death. That’s less true for Warlocks and Titans, though a strong discipline spec will reduce grenade cooldown in ways that might allow a middle-tree solar Warlock, for instance, to heal more often.

Second and Third Mod Slots

These should be focused on one or more of the following goals, in order of importance:
  1. Seasonal mods that offer major damage buffs (like Oppressive Darkness) or damage resistance (like Passive Guard from Season 10), or that offer ways to disrupt champions (Overload Grenades or Unstoppable Pulse), or that offers ways to get charged with light (Counter Charge).
  2. Ammo Finder (helmet) and Ammo Scavenger (boots) mods. For most content you can be fine running a generic version of these but for high-end content you really want to adjust these to your specific loadout, because the points you save (Special Finder costs 4 points, but Sniper Finder costs 3) give you more points to spend on other things. On your class item, Special Finisher is very useful for nightfalls where you rely on special weapons for champion and boss damage.
  3. Ammo Reserves (chest) or Loader (arms) appropriate to your loadout.
  4. For grandmaster nightfalls in particular, finisher mods (mainly Special Finisher) that go on your class item and allow you to trade super energy for special ammo drops.
I want to make a special note about mods on your class item. Void class items allow for two very useful mods, Better Already (void) and Recuperation (solar), that boost your health on orb pickup. Paired with masterworked weapons, these can be critical to your survival in solo and group content. Other useful mods include any mods that give you super energy or class energy on orb pickup, though you may not have room for them in Season 11 as Oppressive Darkness eats up 6 of your 10 available points.

The Fourth Mod Slot

This mod slot only appears on legendary armor. There are four major competing systems for building out the fourth slot.
  1. Species-specific mods: // Hive/Taken/Fallen Barrier (damage resist), Armaments (gives heavy on grenade kill), Repurposing (refreshes grenade ability on enemy shield break), and Invigoration (killing orange-bar or higher enemy refreshes class ability). Especially for soloing dungeons or any other sublight content (Grandmaster Nightfalls, e.g.) having at least two of these mods on (Barrier and Armaments) for appropriate enemies is a must.
These mods unfortunately can only be worn on certain armor sets. The Hive mods go on all Crown of Sorrow/Menagerie armor, as well as on Season 8 armor (including Garden of Salvation armor). The Taken ones go on Last Wish, Reverie Dawn, and Scourge of the Past armor. The Fallen ones go on Scourge of the Past armor, as well as Last Wish/Reverie and Forge armor (edit: thanks to u/SevenInchScrew for pointing this out).
  1. Activity-specific mods.// Raid mods include mods for all the Leviathan raids, which drop from Crown of Sorrow, mods for Last Wish (generic to Taken enemies, except for the Transcendent Blessing mod from the Dreaming City, which boosts damage there), and mods for Garden of Salvation (which drop from the two secret chests). Nightmare mods drop from nightmare hunts and only work there. In general the most useful of these mods are, for Leviathan raids: Striking, Giving, and Shielding Hand (damage bonus, chance for heavy, and damage resist, respectively), for Last Wish, Taken Barrier and Taken Armaments, and for Garden, Enhanced Relay Defender, which gives a 10% damage bonus when you’re near a relay, and stacks (so you can wear 4 of them for a 40% damage bonus). If you have to have one mod from all of these it should be Enhanced Relay Defender, which makes an enormous difference in GoS. Of the nightmare hunt mods, I find that only the Nightmare Breaker mods really come in handy; the others not so much. You can read more about them here: https://www.reddit.com/DestinyTheGame/comments/dkpssk/breakdown_of_the_nightmare_mods_banisher_breake.
  2. Charged with Light mods. // The CwL system works as follows: certain mods (colored in green) give you stacks of CwL, up to a maximum of two stacks. Other mods (yellow) spend those stacks. And a third set of mods (white) changes the number of stacks you get or can have (increases your stack maximum to five, or gives you two stacks instead of one each time you get a stack).
The basic system is this: (1) Get CwL (2) Spend CwL. The easiest way to get CwL is to use the Taking Charge mod, which gives you charges for picking up a light orb. Combined with a masterworked weapon that drops orbs on fast kills, you can pretty much guarantee that you’ll spend most of the time CwL. You can also get charges from weapon damage (kills with a certain weapon give you charges) or action triggers (breaking a shield, doing a finisher). You can also get CwL with the important Season 11 mod Counter Charge, which goes on the second or third slot of your chest armor, and charges you when you disrupt a champion—very useful for grandmaster nightfalls.
So now you have charges. How should you spend them? One option is to look for damage resistance or damage buffs. The best damage resist mod is Protective Light, an absolutely crucial choice that gives you 50% damage resistance when an enemy breaks your shield. I use it almost all the time. Useful damage boost mods include High-Energy Fire (generic 20% damage buff till you kill an enemy), Lucent Blade (for swords), and Surprise Attack (for sidearms).
Other CwL mods will give you chances to drop special ammo, return grenade or melee energy, heal you on grenade kills, and more.
For lower-level PvE content I tend to use damage mods like Lucent Blade or Surprise Attack. For scarier content I’m almost always on Protective Light.
One good strategy for content involving champions is to use a Counter Charge mod alongside a High-Energy Fire one; this guarantees that you will be CwL right as you’re damaging a champion, and then spends the charge on High-Energy Fire to help kill the champion faster.
If you have room for mods that increase your stacks, Stacks on Stacks (gives two stacks for each one you earn), Charged Up (increases total stacks by one), and Superpowered (increases total stacks by two) are all useful here.
TL:DR: if you do nothing else use Taking Charge (green) and Protective Light (yellow), and get more fancy once you understand more.
  1. Warmind Cell Mods // Like Charged with Light, this system involves creating an opportunity to affect the gameworld (by making a Warmind Cell), and then using that opportunity (the Cell) in a certain way. You create a cell by getting a kill using a Seraph weapon (from Season 10, or from the Prismatic Recaster this season). Once the cell exists you can either pick it up or shoot it. Shooting it causes it to explode, and a number of WC mods increase the range of that explosion or add effects to it. Picking up the cell will allow you to throw or, or will (with a Warmind’s Light mod) Charge you with Light, or have some other effect.
The most basic way to use these cells is to create them and then shoot them. A mod like Global Reach will then give your cell explosions far greater range and effect. But you can also combine numbers of mods to create some pretty cool synergistic builds, as you see here:
https://www.forbes.com/sites/paultassi/2020/03/27/a-destiny-2-solar-inferno-warlock-warmind-cell-build-for-more-room-clearing-fun/#5ec7d0c01c30
I have personally not used WC builds much, but writing this guide has made me want to try them out, so I’ll update at some point. (edit: see below in comments for some VERY cool WC builds!)
For part 2 of the guide (on weapons and the current meta), see here: https://www.reddit.com/DestinyTheGame/comments/ilwudw/moving_into_highlevel_pve_armorweapons_guide_part/
submitted by Ciborium616 to DestinyTheGame [link] [comments]

MUST READ ! How can I upgrade my Optiplex ? UPGRADE F.A.Q

MUST READ ! How can I upgrade my Optiplex ? UPGRADE F.A.Q
Hi,
As there are to many posts on this subreddit basically asking : "Can I put X GPU in Y Optiplex ???" or "Is this CPU enough for running X game ?", the moderation decided to write this FAQ post, which hopefully will help out most people upgrading their Optiplexes.
I am not an Optiplex expert. I've opened and upgraded some units but I haven't seen them all. If there's a mistake, feel free to correct me, preferably with references so I could put them in this post.
This FAQ is non exhaustive and additional parts can be added any time, so you can frequently check it. From now on, any post that asks for something that has been answered here will be deleted and the user will be asked to read the FAQ to answer his basic questions. He can then create a new post with more specific questions that don't figure in the FAQ to avoid this subreddit being a collection of GPU upgrades post.
If you have any questions regarding PC upgrades in general (even after reading this FAQ), consider browsing pcmasterrace, buildapc or pcgamingtechsupport just to name a few. It's not that we don't want to help you, it's just because this subreddit is a small community and these mentioned communities have a much bigger number of online users. You will get a faster answer going through them.
We are still welcoming posts about done Optiplex builds and also support questions that are not treated in this FAQ.
Thanks for understanding.

0. Optiplex terminology


Dell Optiplexes, as they are businesses oriented machines commonly come in 5 different sizes :
MT, which stands for Mini-Tower, is roughly the size of a m-ATX build. They feature a 5.25inch optical drive bay (on older models, laptop sized optical drives on newer models), at least one 3.5 inch drive bay. They sometimes have a 2.5inch drive bay too. They do have a PCIe 16x slot and a roughly ATX compliant PSU. Some older models use non-ATX connectors on their PSU but one patient enough could remap a standard ATX PSU to them to increase the maximum power delivery. They can house decent GPUs but some drive-bay-cutting can be required for the longest cards. They are the easiest to upgrade and overall less expensive in the used market because they were less expensive new too.
DT, which stands for Desktop Tower are basically low profile versions of MT units. That means that they are half the width and can be easier put on a desk. They feature a 5.25inch optical drive bay (on older models, laptop sized optical drives on newer models) and a 3.5inch drive bay. Some have a 2.5 inch drive bay. They have a PCIe 16x slot but since they are low profile machines, only low profile GPUs will fit without chassis modification. With chassis modification, a regular GPU can be plugged without issues. Their PSU is non-ATX and can be hardly replaced without chassis modification. Some can be swapped for other Optiplex PSUs with higher rating but it is overall quite limiting in terms of upgrades. They also have a TDP limit set in BIOS, which prevent the motherboard from accepting the biggest CPU of its socket because it would overheat or overdrive the PSU. So for these ones, I highly recommend staying on low power, low profile GPUs.
SFF, which means Small Form Factor, is a bit smaller than the DT. They offer basically the same upgrades than the DT but feature a laptop optical drive and at least one 2.5inch drive bay. Some feature a 3.5inch drive bay, but not all of them.
USFF, which stands for Ultra Small Form Factor is basically half the volume of a DT. They offer very little to no upgrade possibilities : you can upgrade the CPU, the RAM, the storage, and... That's all. They feature a laptop optical drive and a one 2.5inch drive bay. They do have a PCIe 1x slot (laptop sized) for an optional Wi-Fi card.
Micro, which means... Well, micro. It's even smaller than the USFF and has been introduced in later series to replace the DT variant. These are very low power machines, with no CPU upgrades possible, as it is soldered. RAM and storage upgrades are eventually possible depending on the exact model. No GPU upgrade possible either. They run on a external power supply.

All these different sizes are easy to recognize... Except if you don't know about them ! Because there's no clear inscription that is easy to access on the unit for a non Optiplex user to indicate it in their posts, that makes us lost time because we constantly have to ask for that information.
Here's a side by side comparison of the lineup :

From left to right : USFF, SFF, MT and DT.

The newer models have a slightly different design, along with the introduction of the Micro variant.

I. Now can I upgrade my Optiplex ?


Like for any PC, there are some things to consider before upgrading components inside :

Does the motherboard have a PCIe 16x slot available for a dedicated GPU ?

For MT, DT and SFF owners, yes, there's one. But DT and SFF units can only have a low-profile expansion card. USFF units can have a GPU connected with the use of adapters but the performance will be significantly reduced. Micro variants cannot receive any GPU upgrades.

Is the PSU powerful enough for a dedicated GPU ?

Most of the time, the stock PSU is too weak for gaming grade GPUs (understand : any PSU that requires at least a 6-pin power connector). On MT units, it is very easy to replace depending on the model and almost any ATX PSU will fit the case. For DT, SFF and USFF unit owners, these are not ATX compliant and often come with proprietary connectors but one with sufficient motivation could still use a ATX PSU, modify the cable pinout and lay the PSU outside of the case. Not very appealing but functional.
To know how much power a GPU need, you can visit the GPU manufacturer website and be sure the PSU follows the minimum PSU requirements of the GPU. If it does not, you might have stability issues, because the PSU can't feed all components properly, data corruption, and possible damage to the PSU and/or the motherboard. So be always sure to have at least a 100W headroom, because Optiplexes cannot be overclocked, it is unnecessary to go higher with the headroom.

Can the new GPU fit the case ?

Looks like an obvious one but since there are low-profile Optiplexes available, asking yourself the question can be necessary. If you're unsure if the GPU length will fit in the case, just measure the case, and you'll know !
Smaller Optiplexes, like the DT and the SFF are low profile but if you're creative enough, a full size GPU can fit the case, without cutting a hole in the side panel, like it's commonly seen.
The USFF variant can still receive a dedicated GPU, through mini PCIe 1x to PCIe 16x adapters, but performance will be much lower because of the reduced bandwidth of the PCIe 1x...

Will I get bottleneck because it's a Optiplex ?

It depends on the generation of your unit. Models prior to 3rd/4th Intel gen will only have PCIe 2.0 on its internal ports, which can cause decreased performance because of the reduced bandwidth. Also note that some Optiplexes, despite having PCIe 3.0 available in their chipsets, have only their PCIe 2.0 lanes wired on the motherboard. This will affect higher end GPUs the most. There are charts online showing the effects of a lower bandwidth on some high end GPUs. Don't worry, your GTX1060 should run fine. A safe bet would be buying a higher end Optiplex, but these are more expensive and that can defeat the purpose of buying an Optiplex to make it into a cheap gaming PC.
As these are primarily prebuilt PCs made for professionals, their internals are cheap. The PSU is fine but weak, and the motherboard VRMs are not cooled most of the time. Literal translation : You can't expect a 4th gen Optiplex to run as well as a 4th gen high end custom build with similar specs.

Are you sure the GPU you will put in here won't be bottlenecked by the CPU ?

Well, again, it depends. Most Optiplexes found on sale are a few generations behind because companies get rid of them as their warranty expired. Of course, you will not have top notch performance (also because of stated above), but anything 3rd generation or more recent are still suitable for modern gaming, you will just need to have lower expectations. Older CPU lack some important instruction sets, especially AVX, which appeared in some 2nd gen Intel chips. Games have a huge performance boost from AVX and not having it can be very limiting in most recent titles, especially the less optimized ones.
Also, consider that CPU support on these is limited. You can upgrade to a i5 or a i7 but not every model is supported and you can't overclock anything on Optiplexes. Older i5/i7 are considered quite average for gaming nowadays.
If your Optiplex is older than 2nd Intel generation, I don't recommend you to attempt gaming with these. You will be always be disappointed. Gaming on 2 core CPUs is not possible anymore and older Core 2 Quad CPUs are very poorly clocked. In that case, I advise you to stick to basic computing tasks with these or buy a more recent model, I'm sorry.

How can I upgrade my CPU then ?

Since not all physically compatible CPU are supported by the motherboard (mainly for power consumption reasons), you'll have to check the CPU compatibility of your unit.
So for that, you type in your favorite web search engine "optiplex model catalog". You'll find specification catalogs from Dell's website most of the time, or from online shops that used to sell that model. Inside the documentation, you will find all configuration variants the series would have been sold with. Be sure to check compatibility with your specific variant, as it changes between them. If a CPU is listed as being sold in a higher end machine, consider it compatible with yours.
Some of these supported CPUs can be quite tricky to find, because some were not even sold in boxes and thus available only to OEMs, especially the lower consumption variants of some i5 and i7 chips. You will have a hard time getting your hands on one of these. I recommend you checking Aliexpress to buy your CPUs. They have tons of used OEM parts. Some specific models are quite expensive for what they are, that's why I don't recommend investing too much in a CPU. I ordered several used CPUs on Aliexpress and had no issues, but that does not mean it can't be any. If you don't want to order in China, I understand, but you will be restricted to the CPUs that are available where you live, and you can pay more for it, if it is very uncommon.
To support more "mainstram" CPUs, there's no magic trick, you'll need a modified BIOS ROM for your motherboard. HP BIOSes are quite locked down, there's no editor that I'm aware of. That means that you'll need to manually edit the BIOS through a hexadecimal editor and know precisely what you're doing ! I don't recommend you to flash a non-official downloaded BIOS that is said to work on your model. There are lots of motherboard revisions and it might not be compatible with the motherboard itself and you will brick it.
DISCLAIMER : Flashing a modified BIOS can void the manufacturer's warranty (duh) but can also damage the hardware if not done properly. There's no "BIOS flashback" option on these motherboards, as they are not meant to be flashed without HP's tools and ROMs. If the CPU you want to use is not supported, there must be a reason, don't you think ?
A BIOS update through HP's utility from the BIOS itself don't hurt tho. Most older Optiplexes still receive BIOS updates.
To replace the CPU, be very careful (as you always should be). If the stock thermal paste has never been replaced, chances are that the cooler is stuck really hard on the CPU. DON'T TWIST THE COOLER ! It can destroy the socket... I've done the mistake myself. If is is stuck and you can access the 3 anchor screws on the socket (which basically hold down the CPU to the socket), unscrew them and the cooler will come with the CPU stuck on it. Then use plastic tools to break the thermal paste seal and get back the CPU. If you can't access those screws, you'll need some more trickery. You'll need Petrol F and/or White Spirit. Petrol F is more efficient on very dried pastes. So the goal is to apply Petrol F between the CPU and the cooler with the help of a syringe or a thin brush. Apply Petrol F all around the point where the CPU and the cooler meets. With patience and care, the cooler should come off quite easily. Petrol F actually liquefies thermal paste and is a good way to clean it off. Remove all residue from the CPU and the cooler with isopropyl alcohol and be careful not to touch the areas. Apply new thermal paste and you're done !
I highly recommend to replace the thermal paste of the CPU, even if you will not replace the CPU. The ideal being performing a delid on the CPU (3rd gen and later only) to ensure maximum thermal performance, but if you don't know how to perform this delicate operation, don't do it.

II. Can I play X game on my now upgraded Optiplex ?


This subreddit is not dedicated to gaming. But it would be tyranny for moderation to delete a post dedicated to specific games running on a Optiplex machines because it is still Optiplex related, I guess ?
Anyways, I highly recommend to check online for more information before posting here. There are lots of benchmark videos available on YouTube and simply browsing "CPU name + GPU name + game name" should give some results. If you're not satisfied with video benchmarks, ask over at gaming or pcmasterrace, they will provide much faster answers.

Thanks for reading this wall of text, you've made it ! If you have other questions, feel free to make a post on this subreddit. If it is an interesting question, it might end up in this FAQ, who knows ?
If you have suggestions or additional tips you feel must be included in this FAQ, feel free to comment this post.
submitted by lululock to optiplexes [link] [comments]

What To Do With My Second-Hand PC (New to Reddit)(Music Production/Gaming Rig)

Hey, I'm new to Reddit, and I made an account because I need some computer hardware advice.
I'm not the best with computer hardware and I'm pretty decent with software as long as I don't have to get too hacky. I may also get some terminology wrong so sorry about that in advance.
I read the rules for this subreddit and I'm not sure if this post lies correctly here but if my post doesn't get banned I'll leave it here (is this supposed to go on buildapacforme?, I'm not sure I'm asking about multiple parts)
This is going to be a long post but here's the TL;DR - I have a second-hand computer with bits and pieces and I'm unsure what to do with it. Is it worth keeping and upgrading, or selling to save up for a new one?
I feel like I need some expert advice because I'm unfamiliar with the value of PC parts as a whole (especially older stuff).
This computer I got second hand from a guy in the UK (I live in London but am non-native).
OPEN ISSUE: Possibly faulty system memory, see below*
The specs are as follows:
CPU: Intel Core i7 950
Motherboard: ASUS P6X58D-E
RAM: Kingston (Genesis) HyperX DDR3 4GB 1600 MHz (x6) (only 12GB in use at the moment)
Graphics Card: Nvidia GTX 1050 ti EVGA (not the card that came with the PC originally)
OS: Win 10 Pro x64 (I think it's legit, he gave me a CD to go with it)
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower Xt 775w
HDD: Western Digital 3TB green (wdc wd30ezrx-00mmmb0)
SSD: Samsung 840 EVO 500 GB
A pretty sleek Corsair case (black with a see through window on one side).
It also has a CD drive.
The main reason I got this computer was that the guy who sold it to me left a bunch of software on it for me to use for music production (Ableton, Omnisphere, Maschine, and a lot of plugins, etc.). I have since gotten a mac mini and other software, but I'm open to having this as a spare music rig for Pro Tools (unless there's a better option). Pro Tools in particular, since my paid version doesn't work on Catalina and I have to pay again to update.
The parts and the computer itself are pretty old by computer standards and the guy said it was at least 7 years old when I got it (in 2018).
It came originally with another graphics card (GTX 760 I think), but this card died in under a year and onboard graphics couldn't handle even browsing the desktop so it lay for a while.
I decided to buy a graphics card because I wanted to try some gaming on it, so I got the 1050 ti and it kind of fixed the computer for a while. I could browse the computer normally again, use the music programs and even play games on it.
*After a while, I started getting some blue screen of deaths and after I fixed those there was one BSOD that kept popping up about system memory. I got this usually an hour after booting (quicker with more intense programs) and Windows Memory Diagnostics didn't help me at all so it lay again. I asked around and one guy recommended taking out some RAM and spacing them out with one DIMM slot in between, and to my surprise, I have not yet encountered that error and it's been a couple of days now without a BSOD (I'm now down from 24GB RAM to 12).
There are corsair fans cooling the CPU and RAM inside, and they are connected to a panel on the front where I can dial in the speeds of the fans (the panel is made by a company called "Scythe").
The CPU is a bit of a yikes for me as far as performance goes (at least in music production and some games I think...can CPU bottleneck frames?) and I have heard that if the CPU and motherboard have to be swapped then it becomes a question of a new computer.
Now the question is what to do with this PC. I feel like it could continue to deteriorate with the parts being as old as they are, and since the original graphics card died and my RAM has been halved (I haven't tested all 6 sticks, but I know 3 out of 6 work) it may just be a matter of time for the rest.
So far I invested 550 GBP into the PC and the new graphics card. I have a Razer Ornata (not Chroma) keyboard and a Razer mouse (my main peripherals not including my spares).
Here are my options (any other suggestions would be welcome):
1) If it can be saved (without investing the price of a new computer anyway) I would like to try, and maybe I can replace some parts with new ones that will be compatible. Ideally, I would have a CPU that compliments the GTX 1050ti nicely which means I can use it to game and mix on Pro Tools. This saves me the hassle of transferring everything to a new computer.
2) I sell the computer parts (or the whole thing if I'm lucky) and use the money for a new computer (probably win laptop so I can make music while traveling). I also have a laptop I can sell, it's an Acer V3-771G. I can put the money for both together towards something new. I could also sell my peripherals to add to that sum. This is attractive to me because the laptop I have has 1 hr battery life and has performance that I would describe as "functional". I'm unfamiliar with selling spare parts and old computers online so any pointers would be appreciated.
I guess I'm looking for the most practical and cost-effective answer. Maybe more practical and comfortable than cost-effective, if getting hacky is the only solution.
I'm happy to provide any more information. Thanks in advance for reading the long post.
submitted by IAskethOfThou to buildapc [link] [comments]

[US-IN][H] 12 GPU Riserless mining motherboards [W] Paypal

Most are aware of Octominer 8/9 GPU mobo which used to sell for 200 but this one is even better, 12 GPU riserless with even better space between GPU.
Typical spacing between cards on a typical 8/9 GPU Riserless = 44 mm
Card Spacing between this 12 GPU riserless = 65 mm (see pics)

In summary : Here is your checklist of things to have your rig runningonce you buy this mobo.
1) LGA 1151 CPU/stock cooler - Buy used, easy find around $35.
2) DDR3 Ram 4G - Buy on ebay, you can find as cheap as $5. Old gen, easily available in trash systems
3) USB stick with SMOS/HiveOS loaded - $6
4) 12 GPU - I have tested Vega on this, pretty much any GPU would work. Include 3090 I am sure.
5) Power supplies with in total 12 (gpu) + 2 PCIE pins. I would recommend those cheap 2x HP 1200 W

The design is in 2 sections. Main board with CPU/Ram/Power pins and 2 GPU slots (x16 slots which I assume run on x1, standard mining board setup).
Then there is extention board with 10 x16 slots as you can see in pics.

IF going with more than 5 rigs, riserless is the way to go and with profitability being high, good time to covert rigs into riserless. I can go on about why Riserless and little extra cost etc.

But think about this, you can literally just put cards on the motherboard, and forget about casing. Yes. The boards holds the card and runs fine. So all that extra time/effort spent on wiring, downtimes, riser issues, case.. nothing needed. Quickest way to get into mining and least amount of hassle.

I have included another pic of actual running rig off a 9 GPU mobo. But you can get the idea about better spaced 12 GPU.

Asking $200 firm + actual USPS/UPS shipping and actually now left with just 15 qty. I might have 5-10 more by 2 weeks once I figure out how many I will end up using. If reddit allows, I will take crypto. I have made trades over last 4 years, so feel free to look up on it before you trust me with crypto.

Pictures/Timestamps
Pic -Sample pic of how a rig would look without any case/frame. "Freesitting" on any home rack.

Here is a sample picture of how cards look inside a case, but I dont have cases. At the moment, full case setup would cost you $900 which is why I am myself skipping the case. I build enclosure around about 6 rigs, and exhaust away the air. Saves me huge amount and most importantly, all rigs are easily accesible for me for any quick work.
Cased rig
submitted by jaykavathe to MinerSwap [link] [comments]

A future proof PC that will last this console generation

Hello fellow reddit builders!
I'm a avid console gamer, however this new generation the Xbox Series consoles look so boring for me that I decided to build a PC that will effectively replace the need to buy one as well as take care of all the multi-platform titles for the coming generation, leaving my PS5 to handle Sony exclusives. I'm gaming exclusively on my LG OLED TV at 4K and don't care about high refresh rates, high fps, etc. 30fps is enough for me, always was and probably will be in the future, I give more priority to picture quality than to smoothness and don't play much competitive and online. I also tried playing at 1440p, but with my TV being 77 inches and me sitting less than 2 meters away from it, it really looks bad, leaving me with the 4K option only.
I'm no stranger to building PCs, built 3 of them in the past for my professional editing work and a fan of the miniITX form-factor. At first I decided to build a somewhat "budget" but still good quality config without going overboard, here's what I got built
- CPU - Ryzen 5 3600 - GPU - Asus RTX 3070 Dual - RAM - 16GB Kingston Predator 3200Mhz - Mobo - Gigabyte B550I Aorus Pro AX - CPU Cooler - Corsair H100x - SSD - Samsung Evo 960 2TB Sata (left from a previous build aka free) - PSU - Corsair SF600 (left from a previous build aka free) - CASE - Cooler Master NR200P
However after testing this PC in Cyberpunk 2077 at 4K with Balanced DLSS setting and raytracing it quickly became obvious that 3070 is not going to cut it since it had dips to 20fps in different scenarios throughout the game. So I sold the 3070 right before new year and currently have a GTX710 sitting in my PCI-E slot to provide image.
Now, I wanted to get the 3080 after this, but the prices for this GPU are just ridiculous where I'm from. It is a 40% premium over the new Asus recommended prices that just got announced at the beginning of the year. Plus there's a 3080 Ti coming and the whole availability/pricing BS will start to unravel over again around April. I don't want to wait that long and I don't want to check prices every day for the next several months. Have the money and the time now and want to do it now.
Enter 3090. Yes. it is more expensive, but the prices right now are at just 15% premium (again, at my country's market) and this card should theoretically let me last the entire console generation without the real need to upgrade, since it has the monstrous 24GB of VRAM and a pretty respectable CUDA/RT cores count. I know that 600W may not be enough for peak power draws, but for the moment plan to undervolt the card a bit and wait for Cooler Masters V850 SFX to be back in stock.
My other consideration is CPU. Since I decided to drop a sizable amount of dough on GPU, it seems kind of unbalanced to have a 3600 to pair it with and expect it to last for 6-7 years. With the new 5000 series CPUs I'm looking at 5600x and 5800x, with the latter being a somewhat more preferable choice since PS5/XSX are 8-core and future games will probably be more optimized for the 8-core architecture. However, I'm not sure, maybe the 5600X will suffice being such a great price/performance chip it is.
RAM is not a concern at the moment, I'm sure 16 gigs at 3200Mhz will be plenty enough for this generation.
So, my question is - do you think that a RTX 3090 with either 5600x or 5800x are going to be enough for me to last this console generation? Which CPU do you think is better? Maybe you can give advice on some other components as well (except the PSU, i know that it needs to be upgraded and will be).
My ultimate goal is a rig that can sustain 30fps and 4K with max/ultra settings with raytracing where available and DLSS Quality or Balanced (no Performance) if needed.
Any advice and opinion will be much appreciated.
submitted by SensitiveArtichoke27 to buildapc [link] [comments]

Just some ideas from a level 74 about how Red dead online could be made better

Side note reddit should have a save feature that makes it so if you're working on a draft and the app crashes you don't lose all your hard work and have to re write everything. I'm ranking this from most to least important so guns and cosmetic stuff will be lower on the list
JOB IMPROVEMENTS AND NEW JOBS: The jobs could use a few things changed about them to improve them, since after awhile they can get a bit stale. I think that the jobs are the biggest down side to Red dead online since they can get pretty old and the lack of content is what makes this game mode so underwhelming so here's some of my ideas
Bounty hunter: Give us new bounties every month, the old ones are starting to get boring and even up the gold from .24 to .25 it's just, more even and doesn't seem like you're skimming off the top
Moonshiner: Give us an option to make the moonshine ourselves instead of having the French guy do it, waiting for the moonshine to cook is boring so why not give players the option to cook it themselves. Have a minigame where we have to get the temperature right, put in the right stuff and stir it right to make the shine and make it harder the more pricey and high quality the shine
Naturalist: Bump up the payment for legendary animal parts and if you piss of the nature bitch, Gus will give you a discount for making her mad. Also while this isn't fully tied to the role, make sleeping bullets knock out horses, dogs and people. I once killed a dog trying to knock it out and the same thing happened to a person. Sleeping bullets that can knock someone out temporarily with a headshot could a cool addition to the game
Trader: Not much seems to need changing besides maybe bumping up the payment you get from deliveries
Collector: Have auctions where an item is up for sale and you and other plays place bids on it and you don't know it's worth until you buy it
But you saw the second part of what I said and you likely thought it was dumb that I wouldn't want new jobs over reworking old ones and you're right! I wrote that part when I was pissy that all my shit got deleted and didn't care about ranking anything. But without further ado here are my ideas for new jobs!
THE RANCHER: Fulfill your dreams of being a cowboy and own your own ranch! You can become a rancher by going to one of the many cattle ranches throughout the map and buying stock in the farm
•Buy cows and raise them before sending them to the slaughter house for big bucks
•Defend the herd from wild animals like wolves and bears and cattle hustlers
•Raid other players farms and steal their cattle for yourself but beware, these men shoot first and ask questions later
•Milk cows and either use it to make thick creamy stews, flavor your coffee, use it to make moonshine or just drink it straight up
•Find rare and exotic horses and break them, then sell them to the highest bidder or keep them as your own personal trophy
•Buy new rancher gun themes and outfits
THE GAMBLER: Test your luck in games of chance as you explore the world of gambling! Near Saint Denis there is a paddle boat stationed at the docks, once you pay for entrance you unlock the gambling card to allow you entrance into the boat
•Play roulette, BlackJack and liars dice in serval new locations throughout the map
•Enter tournaments with other players to win large sums of cash and gold
•Learn to cheat at poker to get the upper hand by pressing the right buttons at the right time but if you fail it will be viable to every player that is looking at you that you cheated, which allows them to challenge you to a duel
•Duels are reliant on your reaction time, first person to shoot is the first person to kill and they win, taking other persons money and leaving the poker game
•In the dark and sleazy parts of the west play Russian roulette with up to six different players. One gun, one bullet, six people. The gun will be passed from person to person until one person remains who will be crowned the winner and shall take all the money
•Place bets on horses races or rig them for your own gain but be careful, if you're caught you will be sent to a duel
•Buy new gambler gun themes and outfits
THE GUNSLINGER: While making money legally can be nice, sometimes you just wanna rob a few unlucky bastards Located in ambarino you can find a gang who's down on their luck and could use a new member to get them back on their feet, your first act as a member buying a new hideout
•Play a set of gang story missions as you track down the traitor who sold out the gang to the Pinkertons and exact your revenge
•Rob banks in a fashion similar to a bounty board with only minor scripting such as police uniforms you can steal to pretend to be police officers and you can either go in quietly or guns blazing. Each mission will reward the player with both gold and money for each time they complete it
•Betray your fellow members at the end of robberies to increased the gold and money you earn, if you want to risk losing some of your gold and money if they kill you
•Rob heavily armored trains for high rewards of money and gold
•Rob special carriages for high cash rewards
•Steal wagons full of expensive items and sell it to the highest bidder
•Rob store owners but if you do they won't serve you for a whole day and if you kill them it'll take three days for them to respawn for you
•Rob high profile gambling matches on gambling boats
•Buy new gunslinger gun themes and outfits
PLACES OF RESIDENCE: This may just be a personal thing but I kinda want a house in Red Dead online instead of just sleeping in the middle of the woods so here are my ideas for homes
Underground houses -Can be placed anywhere in the map -The aboveground part looks like the dirt house you can find -There is a stove with a pot of stew that you can use to make stews -You can change the theme and the look of the house -You can grow mint, oregano and thyme in small pots
Paddle boat -Can be placed anywhere in the main water areas -You can get free cigars and alcohol on the boat -You can place gambling tables on the boat
NEW GAMES/SERIES: I don't usually play these but since a few people do I thought I'd spitball some ideas
Battleships: Fight against other teams in warships, last team standing wins
•The boats are manned by 4 players, one driver who controls the boat, another who repairs it by using a hammer, one guy who controls a muzzle loading cannon that does massive damage but is slow to reload and someone who controls a Gatling gun that does low damage and fires fast
Civil war battles: Fight in battles between the union and the confederacy
•Players defend locations from other plays, the confederacy protects the Manor, Saint denis and Rhodes while the union protects van horn, Blackwater, strawberry, and valentine
•Player that are attacking must capture the location and hold it until the reinforcements arrive -You only have one life and if the defenders kill all the reinforcements and the attackers they win
•Confederates are armed with Springfield rifles and shotguns with their sidearm being a lemat revolver while the union has Litchfield repeaters and Springfield rifles with a navy being their sidearm
NEW FORMS OF TRANSPORTATION: I know that from the last time I did one of these nearly no one wanted a car so don't worry I won't ask for a car and the boats weren't my idea they were someone else's but I forgot who asked for them
•You can buy every kind of carriage that you can find people riding in the game
•When you drive any owned wagon such as the hunting wagon into a stable you can customize it, making it look more tidy, putting a crips trading company logo on the sides or just chancing the kind of wood that its made of
•upgrades for wagons such a the bounty and hunting wagon that adds a weapon box under the seats that allows you to change weapons while on the wagon and iron wheels that increases the speed and handling of the wagon
•Canoe -Small one man boat -Can hold one large fish in storage
•Rowboat -Medium sized two man boat -Has a crate of beer in it that can be drunk -Can hold three large fish
•Steamboat -Large sized boat four man boat -Has a crate of beer and a small stove where you can make stew and craft -Can hold six large fish -Can have a revolver cannon equipped on it
NEW GUNS AND WEAPONS: While the guns in the game is pretty well balanced and useful, new guns are a nice addition to the game
•Colt Walker, In game name, Walker Revolver: First produced in 1847, this was one of if not the most powerful percussion revolver ever made. Firing six .44 caliber round balls and at max 60 grains of black powder, it was comparable to a 1861 Springfield carbine in its firing power though due to poor metallurgy at the time it had problems of exploding after too long of use. Due to it's high damage, range and accuracy this would be a good sidearm for a sniper main or someone with paint it black -Does the same amount of damage as a BAR (Bolt action rifle) -Has the best range and accuracy of any sidearm -Has the slowest fire rate out of any sidearm -has the slowest reload speed (character inserts a paper cartridge, rams it down, then places a percussion cap on the nipple) -Condition lowers faster than any other weapon
•Girardoni air rifle, in game name, Girardoni rifle: Produced from 1780 to 1815 it was a air powered rifle that fired a .46 caliber round ball and had a range of 125 to 150 yards. The gun would use it's own round ball ammunition and you could hold 100 bullets. The gun would be another option for a silent weapon like a bow if you wanted to be stealthy. -Has the same range and accuracy as a BAR -Holds twenty rounds -Is nearly silent -Has the same fire rate as a Lancaster repeater -Does less damage then a bow
DERRINGERS: These will be a new kind of gun in the game, being so small that you can carry them even while you're carrying two pistols. They will be carried in the throwables and equipment slots once you buy two of the same derringers. While weak and having poor range, they have a damage multiplier that gets to the point where if you're face to face with the person you're firing at any body shot will instakill them
•Remington model 95, in game name, double shot derringer: This small pistol is a break action two shot over-under pistol. This cheap derringer is likely the first one you'd buy -Has one of the fastest fire rates put of any derringer -Does moderate damage, slightly less than a cattleman -Has the fastest reload speed out of any derringer
•Colt cloverleaf revolver, in game name, cloverleaf derringer: This four shot revolving derringer is, for a small pistol like this, a very high damage output and decent ammo capacity and would fit well for a player who is a good shot to use the high damage derringer in combat -Has the highest damage out of any derringer, slightly less than a Schofield -Has decent accuracy compared to other derringers -Has a decently slow reload speed -Can be upgraded to have a fifth cylinder
•Colt new line, in game name, pocket cattleman: This gun is one of the most balanced derringer in the game, firing 7-shots in a break-action revolver. It does slightly less damage then the double shot derringer and has the same fire rate as a cloverleaf -Has the highest ammo capacity of any derringer with 7-shots -Has the same fire rate as the cloverleaf -Has the second fastest reload speed out of any revolver
•Allen and wheelock Pepperbox revolver, in game name, pepperbox derringer: Pepperbox revolvers were quite popular from the mid 1830 to at most early 1860 when they were phased out by true revolver but that doesn't mean that these small quick firing guns are gonna go to waste -Has the fastest fire rate out of any derringer -Has the slowest reload speed out of any derringer -Has the worst range and accuracy out of any derringer
•Schwarzlose model 1898, in game name, 1898 pistol: This would just be a 1899 pistol with a new design based off the schwarzlose pistol. It would fill the same role of the 1899 pistol
•1874 sharps rifle, in game name, Buffalo rifle: This would be a import of the same gun from red dead redemption, being a high power, accurate and long range rifle and would serve the same purpose of the original version from rdr1 -Has slightly higher damage then the elephant rifle -Has better accuracy and range then the Springfield rifle -Has the same reload speed as the rolling block rifle
•All the melee weapons from the story: Import than to the online and have the gypsy woman sell them
CLOTHING: Import all the special hats from the story, besides John and Arthur's hats
Off the top of my heads that all I have, if you have any ideas of questions from me ask them in the comments. Thank you all for reading
submitted by cptcckNbaltorture to RedDeadOnline [link] [comments]

Help me come back to the PC universe!

Build Help/Ready:

Have you read the sidebar and rules? (Please do)
Yes.
What is your intended use for this build? The more details the better.
Gaming. Mostly singleplayer games, but some casual online with friends. Nothing competitive. Cyberpunk, Baldur's gate 3, WoW.
If gaming, what kind of performance are you looking for? (Screen resolution, framerate, game settings)
1440p as high of settings as I can go. At least 60 fps, but as high as possible.
What is your budget (ballpark is okay)?
$2k, with a few hundred dollars in wiggle room. Total price not so much an issue as reasonable price per performance.
In what country are you purchasing your parts?
USA, Indiana
Post a draft of your potential build here (specific parts please). Consider formatting your parts list. Don't ask to be spoonfed a build (read the rules!).
PCPartPicker Part List
Type Item Price
CPU AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor $174.99
Motherboard Asus TUF GAMING B550-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard $130.00
Memory Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory $74.94 @ Newegg
Storage Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $83.99 @ Newegg
Storage Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $54.99 @ Newegg
Video Card Gigabyte Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card $380.00
Case Phanteks Eclipse P400A Digital ATX Mid Tower Case $89.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $124.99 @ Best Buy
Monitor Gigabyte G27Q 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor $289.99 @ Newegg
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
Total $1403.88
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-17 20:03 EST-0500
Provide any additional details you wish below.
Was planning this build to use a Ryzen 5600X and NVIDIA RTX 3070, but stock issues are preventing this, so I currently have slotted in a 3600 and a Radeon 5700XT. I don't currently have a gaming rig so I am building this in the meantime, but would like to be able to slot in a 3070, 3080, or one of the new Big Navi cards when they are available.
A few questions: 1. With a Ryzen 5 3600, is there any reason to add an aftermarket cooler or will stock suffice?
  1. Any thoughts on a budget card that would give ok performance for 3-6 months while waiting for the new cards to be available?
  2. I picked a 750W PSU as I read the 30 series cards need this, but would a lower wattage PSU work for those?
  3. If any mechanical keyboards/gaming mouse/headset that you recommend I would appreciate it as I do not have my peripherals yet.
Any other feedback for the build would be much appreciated! Thank you!
submitted by herpeles to buildapc [link] [comments]

COD Mobile has rigged matchmaking.

A winning streak often leads right into a losing streak. Often you'll get put on a bad team full of noobs and bots, just so you lose often while the other team has actual good players and maybe even someone showing off their money via fancy skins and p2w guns (to try to convince you to buy them).
Basically if you lose a match by a big loss or if you carried your team (of bots and noobs) and still lost, then you should stop playing for a few hours or maybe for the day. The system is designed to try to also retain you, not just put you in a p2w match until you quit. So by the time you come back to the game, the system will have most likely reset and you might even get an easy win.
This affects both pub and ranked lobbies. I suspect it might also affect Battle Royale, but that would be a bit differently tweaked perhaps because of how BR works functionally (since nobody has guns at the start).
I'm not the only one who noticed either, I'll post some links below.
https://amp.reddit.com/CallOfDuty/comments/ddnjgt/mobile_is_cod_mobile_rigged/
https://www.reddit.com/CallOfDutyMobile/comments/eco7mo/the_matchmaking_is_potentially_rigged_and_a_rant/ (This one is my post from a while ago, but check out the comments!)
EXTRA BONUS! (Something else I spotted in the new update, but wasn't announced.)
As of season 3 update, now you can't even view the enemies teams rank or levels! This means they're trying to hide something, otherwise why would they do it?
Another thing, matchmaking takes longer. Practically there's fewer payers with fancy gear and veterans to match with than players who aren't either, perhaps now they wait a bit to get you an open slot on one of those matches just so you can see how "good" the latest lucky draw gun is or how you really need to spend and buy better guns.
I've even noticed sometimes I join matches already in progress as well. That's not good. The worst affected mode by that would be free for all, since joining late means you are behind everyone else in the race for the kills.
Some gun perks are also NOT available on free guns. I have yet to see a free gun that grants 3 extra rounds for close range kills, which is enough to get another kill and 3 more rounds! Man O War anyone? That perk alone if abused properly means that you practically don't ever have to reload so you'll always be ready for an incoming enemy. Man O War kills with just 3 hits at short and medium range. HawksNest himself said it's the best mid range assault rifle, but TBH it's probably more P2W at close range just because of the perk. All you got to do is camp in a corner near an enemy spawn. Another less popular YouTuber abused it at close range pretty easily and got an easy nuke.
This is just another day at Activision/Tencent... they've done this sort of thing before.
A lot of you guys don't really know what SBMM or EOMM is, or the point of it; and this is what the developers want.
You're actually being deceived and getting something like EOMM, a tweaked version of SBMM designed for maximizing profits, playtime (so you can pay more in the future), and reduce loss of players (often a result of a pay to win system) by letting them have a good match just so they have a small glimmer of hope (enough to stay). At the end of the day, whatever they decide to call it (even it they call it SBMM, it is likely not SBMM) it's overall pay to win and exploitative.
SBMM puts players of equal skill against each other, which means that veterans get challenging matches, and new players have room to improve as they don't constantly die at their spawn. As a result new players stay and get better, and eventually join the top fraggers, while veterans also stay because matches are fun and exciting because it's not always a easy boring winning streak. Matches don't get stale here as both groups of players and their respective teams have to fight to come out on top. It feels good when you are losing a match, but then you push harder that last bit and surprise the enemy team by winning by a few points.
With EOMM your matches get tweaked to increase or decrease your chances of winning based on how much you played, how much you spend, ect. The idea is to create a more invisible pay to win tactic so that you will pay more, but also not too pay to win that they start to lose lots of players. The document and articles linked below describes in detail how the system works. It's not just exclusive to EA or Activision either, other developers can cook up their own rigged system. There can be some variations, but the end goal is the same.
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/315849420_EOMM_An_Engagement_Optimized_Matchmaking_Framework
https://arstechnica.com/gaming/2018/01/ea-has-tested-online-matchmaking-algorithms-to-favor-engagement-not-fairness/
https://wccftech.com/ea-matchmaking-algorithm/
https://kotaku.com/activision-patents-matchmaking-that-encourages-players-1819630937
https://www.pcgamer.com/activision-wins-patent-that-uses-matchmaking-to-make-you-want-to-buy-stuff/
Randomized Matchmaking is like EOMM, except they don't optimize anything. They allow pretty much anyone to play together, which means veterans can kill off newer players. In a game where grinding better gear is possible at higher levels, while the same gear is available immediately for purchase...it becomes pay to win. Essentially it can have the same affect as EOMM.
submitted by EnfermeraXimena to AndroidGaming [link] [comments]

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